1999 Heavy Moleskin Cotton Slim Tailored Biker Coat
IT 48 - 38 Chest - S/M: Can also fit a IT 46 - 36 Chest - S.
Helmut Lang biker coat from A/W 1999-2000. In excellent used condition with minor fading. Made in Italy. RRP: $1440 (£865)
A/W 1999-2000 is seen by many as one of Helmut Lang's most groundbreaking seasons, whose directional pieces are just as relevant today as when they were designed. Inspired by astronaut uniforms, motorcycle safety gear and rave subcultures, Lang created a subversively elegant and uncompromisingly modern universe that has since then inspired a long list of designers. These have ranged from household names like Balenciaga's Nicolas Ghesquière, Balmain's Christophe Decarnin and Burberry Prorsum's Christopher Bailey to avant-garde pioneers like Raf Simons and Rick Owens. Being the collection's signature pieces, biker-inspired garments were worn by both men and women in many runway looks. This coat takes a more sober and nuanced approach, combining the iconic biker details with Lang's sharp tailoring.
First of all, the cut of this piece is incredibly ahead of its time with a form-fitting body, high armholes and slim sleeves. Both runway looks show this worn oversized. The sharp silhouette is enhanced by the thick moleskin cotton fabric. One of Lang's signature outerwear materials, this substantial fabric has a dense twill weave with a sheared surface. This results in a fabric that is warm and hard-wearing while maintaining an exceptionally soft texture that ages wonderfully over time. Furthermore, its heavy weight gives the coat a strongly structured drape that complements its severe aesthetic.
The coat features an abundance of distinctive details that further demonstrate Helmut Lang's timeless appeal. The front closes with a concealed heavy metal zipper and buttons. The neck has a military stand-up collar with a buttoned tab. The sleeves have an articulated construction that closely follows the lines of the body while allowing for easy movement. Biker-inspired top stitching adorns the elbows and the cuffs are finished with aggressive diagonal zippers. On the interior, extra rows of buttonholes can be used to attach other underlayer items from the collection.
Needless to say, the construction of this piece is excellent.The concealed button placket is flawlessly constructed with a separate lining. Its execution is sharp and gives the coat a luxurious finish. Likewise, diagonal darts on the sides of the waist enhance the slim cut, with their edges perfectly aligning with two vertical side pockets. Overall, all seams are immaculately executed inside and out. The interior is mainly unlined, with heavy sateen lining the upper back. The lower seams are expertly bound with sateen tape to protect them from wear. All hardware has an antique gold finish that complements the coat's dark look, while the buttons are made from genuine buffalo horn with beautiful natural markings.
Overall, this rare coat is undoubtedly one of Helmut Lang's most iconic outerwear designs. Its excellent fabrication and directional aesthetic will make this a cherished wardrobe staple for years to come.