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1999 Heavy Moleskin Cotton Chesterfield Coat

Helmut Lang

1999 Heavy Moleskin Cotton Chesterfield Coat


IT 46 - 36 Chest - S: Can also fit an IT 48 - 38 Chest - S/M.

Helmut Lang tailored coat from A/W 1999-2000. In excellent used condition with minor fading. Made in Italy.

This classic Chesterfield coat is one of Lang's most iconic pieces, encapsulating his visually resolute and streamlined approach to power dressing. Since its introduction for A/W 1993, it was re-issued every season for men and women until the label's demise (pictured: S/S 2004, A/W 2003, A/W 2004). The front has a concealed three-button closure, while the back has a short buttoned vent. The collar can be kept up and buttoned; this detail only appeared in the A/W 1999 version and gives a subtly masculine edge to the classic piece.

The cut is timeless and flattering with defined padded shoulders, a subtly contoured body and fitted sleeves. The silhouette is sharp while maintaining an effortless elegance, and is greatly enhanced by the thick moleskin cotton fabric. One of Lang's signature outerwear materials, this substantial fabric has a dense twill weave with a sheared surface. This results in a warm and hard-wearing shell that maintains an exceptionally soft texture that ages wonderfully over time. Furthermore, its heavy weight gives the coat a strongly structured drape that complements the clean tailored lines. 

The quality of this piece is excellent, in line with Helmut Lang's reputation for streamlined and precise tailoring. One of the most impressive details is the coat's concealed placket, which has a sharp 'slit' construction with a separate lining. Its execution is incredibly precise and gives the coat a very luxurious finish. The undercollar features hand-sewn felt and looks beautiful when worn up. The interior is fully lined in silky viscose that feels pleasant against the skin and features two pockets, one of which is placed diagonally for easier reach. The lining is attached by hand on the shoulders and hem. 

This classic piece is a spot-on example of Lang's contemporary tailoring. Its effortless aesthetic, pleasant textures and precise lines make for the perfect everyday staple without compromising on style.

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