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1999 Fine Cotton Darted Shirt with Hunting Pleat Detail

Raf Simons

1999 Fine Cotton Darted Shirt with Hunting Pleat Detail


Size 48: Best for an IT 48 - 38 Chest - S/M or an IT 46 - 36 Chest - S.

Raf Simons tailored shirt with pleated back from A/W 1999-2000 'Disorder-Incubation-Isolation'. In vintage used condition with minor signs of wear throughout. Made in Belgium.

The A/W 1999 collection was one of Simons's greatest homages to traditional menswear. Although formal elements were always present in his work, this show highlighted his status as a one of contemporary tailoring's true pioneers. Named after three songs by Joy Division, the presentation focused on a monochromatic palette that emphasised structure and subdued modernity. The garments ranged from striking capes to minimalistic outerwear and leather sportswear, and the atmosphere was consistently sober and precise. 

The collection's hyper-tailored aesthetic is beautifully demonstrated in this shirt. Crafted from a finely woven cotton broadcloth with a smooth texture, the piece is one of the finest examples of Simons's shirting we have encountered. The front features his signature diagonal darts that create a subtly aggressive element while giving shape to the torso. Most interestingly, the back is decorated with a large reverse pleat inspired by the construction of hunting outerwear. This type of detail can typically be seen in mid-century British jackets, where increased arm movement is essential when using firearms. In addition to increased comfort it lends a striking point of interest to the serious design. The silhouette is semi-fitted with Simon's typical narrow shoulders.

An abundance of thoughtful details complete the piece. The pleat on the back is reinforced with militaristic triangular stitching on the bottom. The collar is small for a clean look, while the hem is straight, giving the shirt a sharp silhouette when worn untucked. The upper back is constructed with a narrow yoke whose abbreviated shape further reinforces the design's dynamism. The sleeves have barrel cuffs with a single pleat. The buttons are crafted from genuine mother-of-pearl and the interior is finished with flat fell seams that protect the fabric from fraying. Finally, a minor professional repair has been performed on the pleat's upper section. 

A spectacular demonstration of Simons's sartorial talents, this rare shirt will add a striking element to formal outfits. While being in vintage condition, it remains perfectly wearable and we could not resist adding it to our inventory. Strongly recommended. 

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