A/W 1999-2000 is seen by many as one of Helmut Lang's most groundbreaking seasons, whose directional pieces are just as relevant today as when they were designed. Inspired by astronaut uniforms, motorcycle safety gear and rave subcultures, Lang created a subversively elegant and uncompromisingly modern universe that has since then inspired a long list of designers. These have ranged from household names like Balenciaga's Nicolas Ghesquière, Balmain's Christophe Decarnin and Burberry Prorsum's Christopher Bailey to avant-garde pioneers like Raf Simons and Rick Owens.
Boasting a plethora of interesting features and finished to an exceptionally high standard, this piece stands out as one of the best-detailed Helmut Lang streetwear garments we have handled. The design is based on the US Army's M69 flak vest, issued for the Vietnam war. Unlike the original, Lang's version is tightlyfilled with pure goose down that creates a strong sculptural silhouette. The collection's signature militaristic and bondage-inspired details further contribute to the avant-garde edge of the piece.
The jacket is crafted from a densely woven 55% cotton/45% nylon fabric. Windproof and water-resistant, the material has a dry surface and matte finish that greatly complements the aesthetic of the piece. The front has a button and zipper closure, leading up to a short round collar. The button placket is reinforced with thick nylon webbing tape. Similar nylon tape details are applied asymmetrically across the chest to create subtle points of interest. Likewise, a large cargo pocket is placed on the right side of the chest. The hem has a shirt-like curved shape and its sides are decorated with distinctive laced slits inspired by 1960's biker jackets. The upper back and sleeves are precisely shaped by darts to optimise movement. The cuffs are finished with thick wool flannel underlayers to protect the arms from the elements.
Undoubtedly, the interior of the jacket is just as interesting as the exterior. A removable liner vest adds further insulation and can be attached to many outerwear designs from the 1998, 1999 and 2000 winter collections. Furthermore, Lang's signature bondage carrying straps can be used to carry the piece like a backpack, with or without the removable liner. The piece is fully lined with the same fabric as the shell on the body and viscose sateen on the sleeves; precisely finished seams essentially make the piece reversible. Overall, the craftsmanship of this piece is superb, setting the standard for luxurious sportswear.
A truly iconic outerwear piece from one of Helmut Lang's best seasons, this rare jacket captures the transgressive aesthetic that has made Lang's clothes so coveted decades after their release. Combining unprecedented style with everyday practicality, it will become a cherished favourite for years to come.
