Helmut Lang
1999 Bondage Trousers with Zipped Pockets and Straps
1999 Bondage Trousers with Zipped Pockets and Straps
IT 50 (adjustable): Best for a 32", 33" or slim 34" waist.
Helmut Lang bondage trousers from A/W 1999-2000. In excellent used condition. Made in Italy.
A/W 1999-2000 is seen by many as one of Helmut Lang's most groundbreaking seasons. Inspired by astronaut uniforms, motorcycle safety gear and rave subcultures, Lang created a subversively elegant and uncompromisingly modern universe that has since then inspired a long list of designers. The collection's aggressive aesthetic introduced a variety of elements that came to define Helmut Lang's output during his brand's final years. This pair is a radical rework of Lang's classic chino trouser, with distinctive zipped pockets on the legs and straps on the knees. One of the collection's signature pieces, the trousers were worn by both men and women in many runway looks. A similar pair in leather is in the collection of The Tokyo Costume Institute.
The cut is straight and fitted with a paneled construction that produces an intricate three-dimensional shape. A multitude of signature Helmut Lang details are present. Each leg features three oversized patch pockets with long vertical zips, the second of which is disrupted by a horizontal strap that secures with velcro. The front has Helmut Lang's signature construction where the waistband, pockets and leg are constructed from the same piece of fabric. On the back, two welt pockets close with metal zips. The fabric is a medium weight brushed cotton with a soft, fleecy texture. This type of fabric was used extensively by Lang during this period and has been overdyed for a vintage finish with subtle irregularities.
The trousers are well constructed and exhibit tremendous attention to detail. All seams are realised in dark grey thread, resulting in a subtle contrast that highlights the trousers' intricate construction. The waist features Lang's signature strap adjusters with chunky polished silver hardware. The fly closes with a zip, a concealed snap and a button to prevent uneven stretching. The interior is finished with multiple straps for hanging. All interior seams are expertly finished with tape binding to prevent fraying and the pockets are lined in grey textured fabric.
Helmut Lang's layered bondage aesthetic has defined contemporary fashion, and these statement trousers encapsulate the severe aesthetic of one of his most memorable periods as a designer.