IT 44 (oversized): Best for an IT 46 - 36 Chest - S or a slim IT 48 - 38 Chest - S/M. It could also fit a Womens UK 14 - US 12.
Helmut Lang bondage biker jacket from the A/W 1999-2000 collection. In excellent used condition with minor signs of wear. Made in Italy.
A/W 1999-2000 is seen by many as one of Helmut Lang's most groundbreaking seasons, whose directional pieces are just as relevant today as when they were designed. Inspired by astronaut uniforms, motorcycle safety gear and rave subcultures, Lang created a subversively elegant and uncompromisingly modern universe that has since then inspired a long list of designers. This piece is by far the rarest version of the classic funnel neck biker jacket that was one of the collection's hallmark designs. In addition to its iconic biker-inspired features, it exhibits a variety of directional asymmetric details that capture Lang's avant-garde streetwear at its finest. Its interior is beautifully finished with Lang's iconic bondage straps that attach like a harness to the wearer's body.
The jacket has a form-fitting cut with engineered sleeves that follow the shape of the arms, creating an aggressive silhouette while allowing for easy movement. The front closes with a concealed zipper, leading to an aggressive funnel neck with a large velcro strap and a removable faux fur insert. Zippers, pockets and velcro trims contribute to both style and function, while the articulated elbows are decorated with biker-inspired stitching. Asymmetric grosgrain tape applications adorn the shoulders, becoming more pronounced towards the left side where they encase the shoulder, accompanied by a large rectangular patch that covers the majority of the sleeve. A small D-ring completes the subversive design.
The construction and attention to detail of this piece are phenomenal, setting the standard for luxurious streetwear. The jacket is realised in Lang's signature overdyed cotton flat weave with a resin coating that gives it a textured surface and a matte appearance. A hidden metal wire reinforces the neckline and can be used to adjust its shape, while velcro pieces secure it when worn down. The chest features rectangular stitching with a single pocket echoing the square shape from the interior. Being fully padded on the body and sleeves, the interior is comfortable and exceptionally warm. Overall, all seams are immaculately executed inside and out.
Combining Helmut Lang's sophisticated approach with cutting-edge details, this exceptionally rare jacket must have been rather out-of-this-world when designed in 1998. Since then, one of Lang's biggest achievements is that his designs from 10 and 20 years ago remain just as relevant and cutting-edge, having inspired a long list of designers and stylists over the years. We are confident that most contemporary fashion curators would be happy to have this piece in their archive. Strongly reccomended.
