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1998 Sleeveless Military Parka Sweater with Layered Hem (Mens' version)

Helmut Lang

1998 Sleeveless Military Parka Sweater with Layered Hem (Mens' version)

£285.00

Size L: Best for any size between an IT 52 - 42 Chest - L and an IT 46 - 36 Chest - S. Can also be worn by women sized between UK 10 - US 8 and UK 14 - US 12.

Helmut Lang sweater with extended panel from A/W 1998-1999. In excellent used condition. Made in Italy.

1998 was a very important year for Helmut Lang. The company relocated its offices from Vienna to Manhattan, making it the first fashion house to change continent, while the runway presentations move from Paris to New York. Later that year, helmutlang.com was launched and A/W 1998-1999 was the first fashion collection to be presented online. Besides these influential firsts, A/W 1998-1999 is seen as one of Lang's seminal collections, showcasing the first major exploration of the abstract and layered streetwear that became synonymous with his late 90s output. The main source of inspiration was contemporary military uniforms, which had been a recurrent theme in Lang's menswear since the decade's beginnings. Still, unlike previous seasons where the appropriation of military designs was straightforward and clear-cut, A/W 1998-1999 showcased a variety of unique garments whose aesthetic, detailing and execution are characteristically Lang.

Following the collection's militaristic spirit, the sweater features an additional panel attached at the waist that extends below the hem to create an elongated layer reminiscent of parka coats. The design is precise and uncluttered with a tank top-like structure, a narrow straight body and a wide crew neck. The piece is crafted from a medium weight cotton knit in a simple stockinette stitch with minor colour variations that create a subtly grained effect. The chunky yarn is soft, stretchy and pleasant to touch. Conversely, the fine and lightweight cotton voile fabric of the extended panel moves beautifully when the piece is in motion, further accentuating the layered effect.

Long drawstrings on the waist and bottom hem complete the piece, while exposed stitching along the waist forms sharp horizontal lines that create a subtle geometrical play that is often observed in Lang's designs from this period. To reinforce the neckline and armholes Lang has opted for knit tape binding attached using an invisible stitch that is often used in tailoring to create a cleaner finish. The hem is finished with a wide rib stitch. Overall, the sharp lines and precise details that epitomise Lang's 1990s work are evident throughout the construction of the piece.

An avant-garde Helmut Lang design from a most coveted collection, this sweater captures the designer's forward-thinking vision. While making for a directional layering piece in winter outfits, it will also impress in simple outfits during warmer days. In unworn archival condition.


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