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1998 Ribbed Cotton Slim Military Sweater

Helmut Lang

1998 Ribbed Cotton Slim Military Sweater


Size L: Best for an IT 48 - 38 Chest - S/M or a slim IT 50 - 40 Chest - M.

Helmut Lang military sweater from A/W 1998-1999. In excellent used condition. Made in Italy.

1998 was a very important year for Helmut Lang. The company relocated its offices from Vienna to Manhattan, making it the first fashion house to change continent, while the runway presentations move from Paris to New York. Later that year, was launched and A/W 1998-1999 was the first fashion collection to be presented online. Besides these influential firsts, A/W 1998-1999 is seen as one of Lang's seminal collections, showcasing the first major exploration of the abstract and layered streetwear that became synonymous with his late 90s output. The main source of inspiration was contemporary military uniforms, which had been a recurrent theme in Lang's menswear since the decade's beginnings. Still, unlike previous seasons where the appropriation of military designs was straightforward and clear-cut, A/W 1998-1999 showcased a variety of unique garments whose aesthetic, detailing and execution are characteristically Lang.

This slim-fitting sweater is one of the season's signature tops and was worn by both men and women. It is also one of the most successful Helmut Lang designs, and it was released every year until the label's demise. (Pictured: A/W 1998 runway and a 1998 Elfie Semotan photo). In our view, the sweater's commercial success can be attributed to its streamlined cut that adapts itself to the wearer's silhouette; after all, the body rarely goes out of fashion. The shoulders, body and sleeves are narrow and elongated.

The sweater is crafted from a heavy yet soft cotton yarn that has been knit in a chunky ribbed stitch. This gives the substantial knit a lot of stretch that allows it to follow the lines of the body without being uncomfortable. The sharp look is complemented with a high crew neckline and subtle variations in the knitting technique around the neck and sleeve borders, demonstrating the designer's thoughtful attention to detail. The waist and cuffs have no added ribbing for a streamlined and precise fit.

Overall, this is an excellent piece that will add a sharp touch to any sophisticated outfit. Its streamlined aesthetic makes it versatile and easy to integrate into a variety of wardrobes, while its handsome slim cut looks as relevant today as when it was first showcased.

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