1998 Limited Edition Slim Darted Shirt
Size 48: Best for a slim IT 46 - 36 Chest - S or an IT 44 - 34 Chest - XS.
Raf Simons tailored shirt from A/W 1998-1999 Limited Edition for Men's Non-No. In excellent used condition with minor signs of wear. Made in Belgium.
In our view, Raf Simons's tailoring offers one of the most interesting and nuanced expressions of his subculture-inspired vision. On a first impression, the absence of graphic decorations evokes associations with traditional menswear. At the same time, however, Simons's progressive attitude ensured that his tailoring was highly unconventional and like nothing that had come before him. Cathy Horyn explains:
'Simons is probably the most influential men's-wear designer of the last decade. "He did everything before anyone else, and everybody has copied him," Marie-Amelie Sauve, the stylist for Balenciaga, said. Although Simons is virtually unknown outside the small world of European men's fashion (he shows in Paris), his effect on the way young men dress cannot be overstated. Only with training, genius, intoxicating amounts of culture and possibly a discreet drug habit have a handful of designers been able to change the shape of clothes. Simons, without any of these advantages, has done it three times. The first time was in the mid-1990's, at the beginning of his career, when he came out with suits that were cut unusually small in the shoulders. [...] If Gucci's caftans and Jean Paul Gaultier's cowboy chaps didn't represent the same emotional trip to this generation, Simons's minimalist suits did. They became the dominant silhouette of the late 90's. I once asked him what made him think of that shape. As usual, he had a straightforward explanation. "It was just because we were so small," he said.' (our emphasis)
Simons's signature narrow shoulderline and razor-sharp proportions gave an unexpectedly youthful element to classic garments and, for the first time, people with slender frames could find tailoring that was designed for their profile. While Simons's much-coveted streetwear glorifies youth cultures through visuals, it could be argued that Raf Simons tailoring takes this attitude and gives it real substance though craft and sartorial know-how.
This shirt is part of a limited capsule collection for Japanese magazine Men's Non-No. Consisting exclusively of this design in different colours, the collection was offered by phone or mail order to the magazine's readers. In line with the designer's paradigm-shifting approach, the piece combines classicism with Simons's signature details that distinguish it from classic shirts. His signature diagonal darts create a subtly aggressive element while giving shape to the torso. The cut is skinny throughout with narrow shoulders, skinny sleeves and slightly contoured side seams. On the back, long darts add further definition to the sharp silhouette. The fabric is medium-weight cotton poplin with a firm drape and a streamlined matte finish.
The expert proportions of the design are further demonstrated in its details: The collar is chunky and structured, complementing the precise silhouette, while the hem is straight, giving the shirt a sharp look when worn untucked. The back is constructed with a narrow yoke whose abbreviated shape further reinforces the design's dynamism. The sleeves have barrel cuffs finished with a single pleat. The buttons are crafted from genuine mother-of-pearl and the interior is finished with French seams that protect the fabric from fraying.
A classic design that is still released by Raf Simons nowadays, this shirt demonstrates the Belgian designer's extensive knowledge of traditional tailoring. Its precise details and striking silhouette give it serious attitude while making it equally fit for both casual and formal outfits.