Cart 0
1997 Vintage Structured Leather Elongated Jacket

Helmut Lang

1997 Vintage Structured Leather Elongated Jacket


IT 44: Best for a slim IT 46 - 36 Chest - S, an IT 44 - 34 Chest - XS, a Women's UK 12 - US 10 or a UK 14 - US 12.

Helmut Lang leather jacket from A/W 1997-1998. In excellent used condition. Made in Italy.

For A/W 1997 -the first winter collection of his year-old Helmut Lang Jeans label-, Lang took the denim-based explorations of S/S 1997 to new heights of sophistication. While the runway show focused on the clean lines of Lang's tailoring, it is the streetwear that is now considered as some of his most covetable output: This collection introduces the iconic bulletproof vest, Lang's renown take on the M-51 military parka and several groundbreaking fabric treatments for denim. (Pictured: A/W 1997 and a similar design from S/S 2003.)

This rare leather jacket represents Lang's more subtle military-inspired output, with its clean lines and simple details creating a minimalist yet progressive piece which seems to be more aesthetically relevant than ever. The streamlined design is an elongated adaptation of Lang's classic one-pocket blouson jacket, typically seen in cotton, nylon and denim. This version is realised in heavy polished leather that has a strong structure and a rich, lustrous finish with defined grains. The thickness of the material creates a throughly modern silhouette. The cut is form-fitting with narrow shoulders, slim sleeves and a fitted body.

The jacket features a button closure that leads up to a chunky point collar. Lang's signature 'inside-out' pocket decorates the chest. This otherwise simple design is distorted and elongated through the addition of a panel on the bottom of the waist, creating a longer silhouette reminiscent of a car coat. A sharp horizontal seam connects the panels and gives the jacket a subtle avant-garde touch, while long darts are placed horizontally across the front. The cuffs are finished with military-inspired topstitching and feature two buttons. Overall, the strong geometrical lines and clean surfaces of the jacket's construction give it an architectural precision that is often seen in Lang's designs from this period. All buttons on the front are backed by smaller buttons on the interior; this ensures that they will never come off while maintaining the structure of the leather. The interior is fully lined in deep black viscose fabric that feels pleasant against the skin and is finished with a small patch pocket. 

Aesthetically uncluttered yet subtly directional, this jacket is a classic Helmut Lang piece that in many ways represents his radically sophisticated approach to casual clothing. 

Share this piece

Related products: