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1997 Slim Thigh Pocket Jeans with Silk Application

Helmut Lang

1997 Slim Thigh Pocket Jeans with Silk Application


Size 29: Best for a 29" or 30" waist.

Helmut Lang jeans with asymmetric silk stripe and back leg pockets from A/W 1997-1998. In excellent used condition with natural distressing. Made in Italy.

For A/W 1997 -the first winter collection of his year-old Helmut Lang Jeans label-, Lang took the denim-based explorations of S/S 1997 to new heights of sophistication. While the runway show focused on the clean lines of Lang's tailoring, it is the streetwear that is now considered as some of his most covetable output: This collection introduces the iconic bulletproof vest, Lang's renown take on the M-51 military parka and several groundbreaking fabric treatments for denim. The iconic linear decorations seen on the S/S '97 show were present throughout the range, however this time they were realised in fine silk besides rubber. Amy Spindler writes:

'Helmut Lang's instincts have defined the 1990's, so all the designers who have been copying him for so long should take a close look at the way he staged his show this season. Instead of a flashy presentation, there was a modest workroom created in an uncrowded gallery. [...] Mr. Lang presented a quiet storm, taking ideas from past seasons and infusing them with elegance and sophistication. [...] But there was nothing conventionally pretty about it; it was a new notion of beauty and taste. [...] Tulle wound around forearms, fell like capes in the back from shoulders, or wound over even the simplest men's T-shirts. One crinkled pair of pants was made from layers of sheer fabric.'

This pair of jeans is a quintessential Helmut Lang design that combines classic elements with the designer's much-coveted abstract detailing. A diagonal silk chiffon application traverses the seat area, lending an unconventionally luxurious edge to the traditional 5-pocket design. The jeans' back has a layered construction that produces large storage compartments on the thighs, adding further depth the intriguing look. The legs are finished with an additional cuff panel with bound seam details. The fabric is heavyweight denim that has been overdyed to achieve a vintage finish with subtle colour variations. The silhouette is slim and elongated with a medium rise and a narrow straight leg. 

Gorgeous finishing with considerable attention to detail gives substance to the luxurious piece. The silk trims are fine and lightweight, designed to fade and fray over time. In this pair, minor wear can be observed on the fly and left side seam. The unique design is complemented by polished silver hardware that has been precisely engraved with the Helmut Lang Jeans logo. The interior is flawlessly finished as to be expected, with flat fell seams that ensure the jeans will be worn for years without fraying. 

These beautiful jeans are an excellent demonstration of the avant-garde sensibilities of Helmut Lang's short-lived Jeans range. Luxurious, idiosyncratic and simultaneously rugged, they are a piece to cherish for years to come.

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