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1997 Raw Denim Classic 2-Pocket Shirt Jacket

Helmut Lang

1997 Raw Denim Classic 2-Pocket Shirt Jacket


IT 50 - 40 Chest - M/L: Can also fit a slim IT 52 - 42 Chest - L.

Helmut Lang denim shirt jacket from A/W 1997-1998. In excellent used condition. Made in Italy.

We have often argued that Helmut Lang's work was catalytic in the transformation of classic denim staples to sophisticated high fashion pieces. An examination of Lang's output reveals that American denim jackets were a strong source of inspiration for the Austrian designer, who in turn created countless garments influenced by their iconic detailing and proportions.

The 'shirt jacket' was one of the core designs designed by Lang as part of Helmut Lang Jeans' first collection for S/S 1997. Its design is a straightforward adaptation of the iconic Levi's 557XX jacket from the early 1960's: Lang has maintained several of the original details, such as the panelled construction of the torso and flapped chest pockets. At the same time, its form has been skilfully streamlined to create an elegant and precise design. The jacket's length has been extended, giving it the proportions of an overshirt. Upon a closer inspection, typical construction details such as the waistband, button placket and pocket stitching have been reduced to achieve a cleaner look with less visible seams. 

The cut is classic and simultaneously modern: dropped shoulders add casual nonchalance, while the semi-fitted torso and high armholes maintain a sharp silhouette. The shape is further complemented by the substantial raw denim which has considerable weight, creating a structured effect. The finishing is precise like all Helmut Lang denim, characterised by finesse and precision. In this instance, overlocked seams have been used for a lighter effect. Upon a closer inspection, we can see that selected details such as the buttonholes are sewn with black instead of orange thread, demonstrating the designer's attention to detail. The hardware has a matte silver finish and is engraved with the Helmut Lang logo.

A contemporary workwear classic, this is a versatile piece that would lend itself well in a variety of casual outfits. Despite having been designed almost twenty years ago, its sharp silhouette and refined finishing ensure it remains as relevant as when it was first showcased. 

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