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1997 Evening Shirt with Silk Sash Application

Helmut Lang

1997 Evening Shirt with Silk Sash Application


IT 46 - 36 chest - S: Can also fit an IT 48 - 48 chest - S/M.

Helmut Lang tailored shirt from S/S 1997. In excellent used condition with minor fading, with attached replacement button. Made in Italy.

'It’s not trashy and loud. That’s not our thing. But it’s often very ornate – just not old ornate.'
-Helmut Lang

Helmut Lang's S/S 1997 collection was a tremendous success that further solidified his status as the quiet avant-garde spirit of his generation. Focusing on the refinement of his personal vision rather than seasonal novelty, Lang showed his characteristic mix of clubwear-inspired separates, sharp suiting and sophisticated eveningwear. Subtle decorative applications brought forth an element of unforeseen abstraction: Solid rubber stripes and satin sashes in bold colours evoked graphic modernity; deconstructed elements and abbreviated shapes were wrapped around the models' bodies, confusing and enticing the viewer; nylon trims gave a sport-inspired urgency to sober fitted lines. Lang's characteristic jersey dresses were restricted by straps, while silk trims in unexpected places redefined conventional luxury.

This beautiful evening shirt is characterised by Lang's restrained and precise tailoring, and splendidly demonstrates his detail-oriented approach. A sash crafted from a single piece of pure silk satin decorates the front and back of the shirt, creating a luxurious and eye-catching point of interest. The front has a partially concealed button placket, where the top and bottom buttons are exposed, complementing the sophisticated aesthetic. The sharp lines are further reinforced by Lang's classic point collar, which has a handsome and masculine shape. The shirt's cut is surprisingly ahead of its time with a trim profile, narrow sleeves and a somewhat shorter body that looks great tucked in or untucked. 

Upon a closer inspection, we can see that the piece is finished to a very high standard. The sleeves have Lang's typical two-piece construction which enhances their structure. The cuffs have a curvilinear shape with two pleats and invisible cuff openings. All buttons are realised in genuine mother of pearl in a gunmetal tone. The back features side pleats to optimise movement. On the interior, all seams have flat fell finishing that prevents them from undesirable fraying. 

Combining traditional luxury with avant-garde finishing, this sophisticated piece demonstrates the perennial relevance of Lang's output. Although it was designed almost 20 years ago, it looks as stylish as when it first graced the runway. Strongly recommended.

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