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1995 Safety Orange Double Nylon Twill Jacket

Helmut Lang

1995 Safety Orange Double Nylon Twill Jacket


IT 46 - 36 Chest - S. Can also fit an IT 48 - 38 Chest - S/or a slim IT 50 - 40 Chest - M.

Helmut Lang orange zipped blouson from S/S 1995. In excellent used condition. Made in Italy.

Helmut Lang's S/S 1995 collection was a major success for the up-and-coming Austrian designer. Sharp silhouettes were realised in translucent and transparent textiles, citing 'Parisian chic, Hawaiian surf culture [and] the beat of techno' as inspiration. From US Vogue's January 1995 issue:  

'"What I find modern is the balanced use of both traditional fabrics and new textiles," says Helmut Lang, whose balancing act for spring involves mixing cotton, wool and leather with high-tech nylon, lacquered organza and synthetics designed to reflect light. Equally important: the simple shapes that take on a sophisticated glamour, thanks to Lang's futuristic fabrics. There are cigarette thin pants, jackets cut as close as shirts, skinny skirts, fitted T-shirts, and tank dresses. "It's the idea of combining well-known quality with new surfaces that makes them exciting," says the designer.' (our emphasis)

This unconventional blouson is one of Lang's hallmark designs, released every season from the early 1990s until the label's end in different fabrics and finishes (pictured: S/S 1998). Its clean lines evoke sophistication and understatement while highlighting Lang's ability to create garments that are simultaneously impressive and effortlessIn line with the 1995 collection's experimental approach, this unique version is crafted from robust nylon twill in a striking safety orange colour. The smooth fabric has been double-layered throughout for a structured shape. The silhouette is semi-fitted with a straight body. 

The simple design features a zipper and button closure, leading up to a sharp point collar. The waist is finished with two welt pockets, while the back is constructed from a single piece of fabric. Like many Helmut Lang designs, thoughtful details and finishing give further interest to the piece: The double-layered construction is flawlessly executed, making the piece completely reversible. The buttons are crafted from tonal resin. Most interestingly, all seams have a slightly gathered effect as typically seen in military MA-1 bomber jackets. 

Thoroughly modern and beautifully constructed, this extremely rare jacket is a striking yet accessible example of Lang's timeless approach to contemporary menswear. Despite having been designed over twenty years ago, its timeless design is proof of the enduring relevance of Lang's work as a fashion designer. Strongly recommended.

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