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1993 Slim T-Shirt with Sacred Heart Print

Helmut Lang

1993 Slim T-Shirt with Sacred Heart Print


Size JP M: Best for a Women's UK 8/US 6 or a UK 10/US 8.

Helmut Lang printed T-shirt from S/S 1993. In excellent used condition with minor signs of wear. Made in Italy.

Lang's S/S 1993 collection maintained the hard-edged glamour of the previous winter season: sharp fitted silhouettes and lustrous surfaces were present, as well as Lang's ingenius combination of traditionally luxurious fabrics and synthetic textiles found in contemporary clubwear. This time, however, the stiff structured layers gave their place to light knitwear, relaxed maxi dresses and cropped proportions that addressed the need for lighter garments for the warmer months. At the same time, a Catholic Christian theme can be observed throughout the collection, subtly hinting to questions of morality and devotion. Christian imagery and particularly the Holy Cross was omnipresent in the form of prints, embroideries, casts, engravings and metal pins, as well as the collection's advertising material (last picture).

Lang often often decorated his early streetwear-inspired designs with religious prints, and this T-shirt features a print of the Sacred Heart. A quick online search reveals that the Sacred Heart is a common symbol in Catholic visual culture, typically understood as the embodiment of Jesus Christ's divine love for humanity. Variations of this design appeared in several runway looks, making it one of the collection's signature details. Like most of the showpieces from this period, this piece was produced for the Japanese market.

 This otherwise simple garment has a beautiful narrow cut, with contoured side seams that follow the lines of the body, fitted shoulders and long slim sleeves that flare slightly towards the cuffs. This cut -in combination with the somewhat structured medium weight cotton jersey fabric- results in an elegant and flattering silhouette that is rarely found in T-shirts, where more simplistic straight lines prevail. The wide crew neckline is finished with ribbed knit while the print is realised in gold, grey and silver ink that give it a faint shine.

An early and extremely rare example of Helmut Lang's much admired basics range, this T-shirt demonstrates the hallmarks that have made Helmut Lang T-shirts so coveted years after the label's demise: printed decorations are used with resolute moderation and ambiguity, while the shapes are precisely tailored and realised in excellent quality fabrics. This not-so-basic approach to basics was crucial to Lang's commercial success and remains as relevant as ever.

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