1993 Mohair Elongated Sweater with Slashed Sleeves
Size JP M: Best for a Women's UK 6/US 4, a UK 8/US 6 or a slim UK 10/US 8.
Helmut Lang mohair knit from A/W 1993-1994. In excellent used condition. Made in Italy.
The early 1990s were undoubtedly one of Helmut Lang's most important periods: His novel aesthetic was starting to receive attention from outside Europe and the press described it as 'minimalist', often in juxtaposition to the visually saturated creations of Ferre and Versace from the late 1980s. Lang's designs represented a new approach to dressing, where luxury was achieved through effortless sophistication and an emphasis on luxurious fabrics and elegant cuts rather than gratuitous ornamentation and oversized logos.
A/W 1993 explored the sober aspects of the clubwear-cum-couture approach that characterised Lang's work from this period. While the silhouettes maintained the sensuality of punk and raver styles (in the form of deconstructed shapes, see-through layers and form-fitting fabrics), the contemporary urgency of Lang's collections was enriched by a new sartorial awareness, characterised by the use of traditionally luxurious finishes, sharp tailoring and natural materials. It was this season that introduced the classic Chesterfield coat, along with the iconic 'slashed' detailing on women's tops.
We believe that this rare piece is one of the earliest examples of Lang's deconstructed knitwear, that became one of the label's defining signatures (pictured: A/W 1993, A/W 1996 and S/S 1996). Like most of the showpieces from this period, the knit was produced for the Japanese market. In our view, its groundbreaking aesthetic is just as enticing as it was when first showcased 20 years ago. This piece was also featured in the collection's promotional material.
Realised in luxurious mohair, the sweater is loosely knit to create an almost transparent surface with a soft and fuzzy texture, while allowing it to closely follow the lines of the body. The result can be daring or subtle depending on what is worn underneath. The piece is precisely cut and sewn for a tight, T-shirt-esque silhouette with beautiful narrow shoulders, a contoured body and skinny two-piece sleeves featuring Lang's iconic 'slashed' sleeve construction on the inner elbows. Through the use of this subtle yet impactful detail, Lang artfully turns the body and its movements into an essential part of the shirt's design. The sharp tailored lines of the piece are accentuated by a long vertical seam on the front, intersected by a sharp dart on the chest to form a subtle cross.
Beautifully crafted and aesthetically trailblazing, this extremely hard-to-find sweater is a bold example of Helmut Lang's visionary and influential work during the early 1990s. While making a very sophisticated and directional statement, we are certain that any modern fashion curator would be happy to feature it in their collection.