1993 Cotton Mesh Shirt with Extended Panels
IT 46 - 36 Chest - S (slightly oversized: Can also fit an IT 48 - 38 Chest - S/M, a slim IT 50 - 40 Chest - M/L or a Women's UK 14 - US 12.
Helmut Lang mesh shirt with draped sides from S/S 1993. In excellent used condition with minor repair on left side. Made in Italy.
This awe-inspiring shirt has become the subject of extensive enquiry over at ENDYMA HQs. Many questions arise concerning its provenance and exact date, but few have been answered so far. Its interior labels indicate that it was manufactured somewhere between 1992 and 1993, however we have been unable to date it more precisely. As such, the conclusion to identify it as S/S 1993 is only our best guess. Vaguely similar designs are scattered in several of Lang's early 90s collections (pictured: S/S 1995, A/W 1991, S/S 1993), however none of them are indicative of a direct association. Whether this piece was intended to be worn by men or women is also unclear, but we believe it is unisex.
Furthermore, Lang's creations rarely highlighted motion and drape in the ways seen in this design. Traditionally constructed like Lang's classic tailor-made shirts, the piece features a considerably longer back whose panels extend sideways to form elongated tails that flow beautifully when the shirt is worn. Side slits allow the front to be tucked in like a typical shirt, while letting the back fall nonchalantly. The unique construction is greatly complemented by the soft cotton mesh fabric with a see-through grid pattern evocative of industrial and military fabrics. The cut is slightly oversized and straight for an easy silhouette.
A variety of interesting details complete the directional design. The collar has Lang's classic point shape, while his signature patch pocket decorates the chest. The back has a long vertical seam and there are side pleats below the yoke for greater range of movement. All buttons are realised in genuine mother of pearl. On the interior, all seams have French finishing that prevents them from undesirable fraying. Overall, the quality of this piece is excellent.
Combining the austere minimalism of Lang's classic shirts with the subversive lines of his avant-garde sportswear, this shirt is a true stand-out that will impress in a variety of outfits. Extremely rare and absolutely timeless, it is a unique find that is unlikely to resurface again. Strongly recommended.