1992 Structured Gold Satin Jersey Slim T-Shirt
IT 52 - 42 Chest - L (slim): Can also fit an IT 50 - 40 Chest - M or an IT 48 - 38 Chest - S/M.
Helmut Lang fitted stretch top from A/W 1992-1993. In brand new condition without tags. Made in Italy.
The early 1990s were undoubtedly one of Helmut Lang's most important periods: His novel aesthetic was starting to receive attention from outside Europe and the press described it as 'minimalist', often in juxtaposition to the visually saturated creations of Ferre and Versace from the late 1980s. Lang's designs represented a new approach to dressing, where luxury was achieved through effortless sophistication and an emphasis on luxurious fabrics and elegant cuts rather than gratuitous ornamentation and oversized logos.
The A/W 1992 collection was possibly one of Lang's strongest until that point and certainly his most groundbreaking. Restricting the colours to black, white and the occasional hint of metallic, Lang showed razor-sharp tailored shapes and striking knitwear that managed to combine the raw sensuality of contemporary clubwear with the avant-garde sensibilities of Parisian couture. A diverse variety of materials ranging from metallic nylons, polished leather and transparent jerseys to fine suiting fabrics and luxurious silks were used in entirely unexpected ways, firmly establishing Lang's still fairly obscure name as one of his generation's truly experimental designers. (Pictured: A women's piece in the same fabric for A/W 1992 and a reissue of the design for A/W 1994).
This top demonstrates Lang's idiosyncratic approach to designing basics with no compromise made in regards to their cut, fabrication and finishing. As a result, the classic T-shirt is transformed to a futuristic runway piece that looked entirely subversive in 1992. The piece is crafted from a double-faced stretch jersey consisting of 81% nylon and 19% elastane. This unique material -used extensively in Lang's 1992/1993 collections- is densely knit to create a structured fabric with considerable stretch and a smooth satin finish with a saturated shine. The fabric's clean and lustrous surface complements the T-shirt's forward-thinking slim cut, with a closely fitted silhouette and narrow, elongated sleeves.
The quality of this piece is excellent and this is evident in its sharp, sculptural lines. The torso features subtly curved side seams that follow the curves of the body, while the crew-shaped neckline and cuffs are finished with reinforced self-fabric binding. Interestingly, the letters of the Helmut Lang label on the neck match the colours of the fabric. Furthermore, the fabric contents label is entirely different from those found in most Helmut Lang garments from the 1990s, indicating that this piece was produced by Zamasport S.p.A., the factory that manufactured Lang's designs on a very limited scale until 1994.
Overall, this is an extremely rare piece -in unworn, archival condition- from one of Lang's seminal early 1990s collections. Although it was conceived over two decades ago, its enticing fabrication and modern silhouette result in a timeless design. The T-shirt would striking in a discerning casual outfit or layered under a sharp suit for a subtly avant-garde finish.