2004 Layered Bondage Parka with Extended Sides and Fleece Lining
IT 48 - 38 Chest - S/M: Can also fit an IT 50 - 40 Chest - M.
Helmut Lang bondage winter coat from A/W 2004-2005. Sample in excellent used condition with minor fading. Made in Italy.
A/W 2004-2005 is one of our favourite Helmut Lang seasons, merging the refined spirit of his 1990's collections with the intricately layered sophistication of his bondage years. An amalgamation of textures and materials referenced Lang's influential body of work; moleskin cotton, silk sateen, steel, coated buffalo leather, raw denim. The runway styling balanced precision with chaos, while the clothes subverted typical notions of luxury and streetwear. At the same time, covert details created complex narratives that gave considerable depth to each look.
This superb winter parka represents what could be understood as the swan song among a series of garments that can be traced back to A/W 1997, when Lang showed his first military-inspired winter coats. In this instance, the clean lines of Lang's late '90s designs have evolved into exaggerated architectural shapes, while the aesthetic is dark, aggressive and precise. In our view, this piece acts as a truly spectacular glimpse of the future of Lang's brand had he remained its head designer. In addition, besides being visually striking, the parka is a one-off showroom sample that was never produced for the retail market and is therefore the only of its kind in the world.
The piece has a sophisticated construction that consists of multiple layers in different proportions. The basis is a short jacket, with a longer curvilinear shape layered over it. The sides of the overlayer extend well below the hem and are embellished with metal rivets to create a directional sportswear look. The front has a chunky zipper closure that concludes in a short funnel neck with a large hood that can be packed away. The waist features two zipped pockets with oversized bomber-style flaps, while the cuffs are finished with Helmut Lang's iconic bondage cuff straps. An abundance of avant-garde details such as the extended zipper, elongated zipper pulls and cuff pockets give depth to the parka's clean lines.
The construction is supremely detailed and luxurious. The shell is crafted from Lang's signature cotton with a resin coating, which gives it a subtle shine and a smooth texture. All zippers are Italian-made Lampo and have a gunmetal coating the complements the design's dark aesthetic. The upper back has a bi-swing construction that enables the sleeves to extend from the body to increase arm movement. The interior is fully lined in thick polar fleece that offers warmth and comfort. Like many Helmut Lang garments, the devil in the details: the sleeves are padded to offer the same warmth as the fleece lining with less bulk, while the pockets are lined in a finer fleece fabric that is softer and smoother.
Overall, this rare showpiece serves as a testament to Helmut Lang's visionary aesthetic that radically expanded the boundaries of contemporary menswear. Practical, hard-wearing and aesthetically pioneering, it was years ahead of its time when presented and maintains its cutting-edge status to this day. Besides looking wonderful, we are confident that this landmark garment is best appreciated as a unique piece of contemporary art.