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2005 Soft Cotton Voile Hand-Tailored Evening Jacket with Silk Collar

Helmut Lang

2005 Soft Cotton Voile Hand-Tailored Evening Jacket with Silk Collar


IT 44: Best for an IT 46 - 36 chest - S or a slim IT 48 - 38 Chest - S/M. 

Helmut Lang blazer jacket with silk trim from S/S 2005. In excellent used condition. Made in Italy.

S/S 2005 was Helmut Lang's final runway presentation before label owners Prada Group discontinued the label and sold its rights to Link Theory Holdings, a subsidiary of Fast Retailing Co. Following the eclectic approach of A/W '04, the collection combined many of Lang's classic 90s elements with the subculture-inspired narrative of his later years. The look was decidedly post-minimalist, with an emphasis on clean surfaces and subtle details that took the form of nautical and fishing equipment. In the showroom, buyers noted that fabrics were at the collection's forefront, demonstrated in their innovative weaves and surface treatments.

This blazer captures the collection's clean aesthetic and strong focus on materials. The classic 2-button, narrow lapel design is realised in extrafine cotton voile. The fabric is smooth, stretchy and weightless, and its soft drape lends a nonchalant feeling to the piece. The collar is finished with luxurious silk sateen the creates luxurious contrast. The unconventional use of silk trims has appeared in several of Lang's collections sine the 1980s and is undoubtedly one of his signatures (refer to this blazer from 1997). The cut of the blazer is fitted throughout with strong shoulders, while the straight lines of the body maintain the masculine elegance that characterises Lang's tailoring. The back is finished with a single vent. The designer himself has worn this piece in several occasions, including the premiere of his 'Make It Hard' exhibition.

The construction of the piece exhibits an exceptionally high level of craftsmanship that was exclusive to Helmut Lang's most expensive tailoring offerings. Hand-tailored with a floating canvas construction, the jacket beautifully combines modern elegance with sartorial tradition. 

It should be noted that using canvas interlinings to construct this piece was an extremely laborious process: This is because giving structure to the lightweight fabric without the use of glue requires extensive hand-stitching (seen in picture 7) that can easily go wrong as even the most minute imperfection can readily become apparent. This is largely the reason why soft fabrics of this type are rarely used in structured tailoring.  

The interior is fully lined in smooth cupro sateen that is almost entirely hand-attached. Pick stitching done by hand decorates the borders of the lining, and there are four welt pockets in different sizes. The collar's underside is backed with black felt (hand-sewn), while the interior side is decorated with ornate pick stitches. 

Overall, this is a beautiful example of fine tailoring that combines Helmut Lang's avant-garde touch with time-proven methods of manufacture. The result is a sharp and truly timeless garment that you will reach for again and again.

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