1997 Evening Jacket with Silk Collar Detail
IT 52 - 42 chest - L: Can also fit a large IT 50 - 40 chest - M.
Helmut Lang blazer jacket from S/S 1997. In excellent used condition; the exterior pockets are sewn shut. Made in Italy. RRP: $1140 (£742) (part of a two-piece suit - find the trousers here)
Helmut Lang's S/S 1997 collection was a tremendous success that further solidified his status as the quiet avant-garde spirit of his generation. Focusing on the refinement of his personal vision rather than seasonal novelty, Lang showed his characteristic mix of clubwear-inspired separates, sharp suiting and sophisticated eveningwear. Subtle decorative applications brought forth an element of unforeseen abstraction: Solid rubber stripes and satin sashes in bold colours evoked graphic modernity; deconstructed elements and abbreviated shapes were wrapped around the models' bodies, confusing and enticing the viewer; nylon trims gave a sport-inspired urgency to sober fitted lines. Lang's characteristic jersey dresses were restricted by straps, while silk trims in unexpected places redefined conventional luxury. This rare blazer jacket encapsulates Lang's cerebral and subversive approach, which seems to be more aesthetically relevant than ever.
The cut is quintessential Helmut Lang: Soft padding adds definition to the shoulders while maintaining an effortless structure, while the straight lines of the body create a timeless masculine elegance. The proportions of the front closure are surprisingly ahead of its time in 1997, with a medium notch lapel and a well positioned two-button closure. It should be noted that Helmut Lang is widely seen as being responsible for popularising two buttons instead of three; in 1997, a two button closure was rather uncommon and constituted a fashion statement in itself. The jacket's sharp styling is complemented by contrasting silk detailing. Instead of featuring silk panels on the lapels like most dinner jackets, Lang opted for a subtle silk collar insert that lends it a sleek and understated avant-garde finish that is synonymous with his designs from this period.
The jacket's main fabric is a densely woven cotton flat weave in a charcoal grey hue. The front has darts and a high quality canvassed construction that gives it a structured drape. The interior is fully lined in smooth viscose fabric and features four welt pockets in different sizes. The collar is backed with black felt and the back has a single vent.
This is a signature Helmut Lang garment with a timeless cut, a subtly subversive design and beautiful attention to detail. Helmut Lang's idiosyncratic approach to men's tailoring was conducive in transforming classic forms into sophisticated and refined runway pieces: His influence can be observed in numerous contemporary designers, from the avant-garde to the high street. Helmut Lang clothes are just as relevant today as they were when they first showcased, and this beautiful jacket looks and feels better than similar garments designed nowadays.