2008 Fine Cotton Classic Darted Shirt
Size 48: Best for an IT 48 - 38 Chest - S/M or an IT 46 - 36 Chest - S.
Raf Simons shirt from A/W 2008-2009. In excellent used condition. Made in FYROM.
From the mid 2000s onwards, the influence of youth subcultures became less prominent in Raf Simons's output. His focus shifts towards a more restrained and futuristic aesthetic, combining technical sportswear and formal tailoring. Still, like the period it succeeded, this phase demonstrates Simons's deeply idiosyncratic approach where traditional codes are reinterpreted and distorted. This shirt is a prime example of Simons's penchant for recontextualization: On one hand, a conspicuous 'R' embroidery on the chest and an '100% Finest Cotton' label in calligraphic font remind us of business wear and its associations with middle class luxury. On the other hand, an intricate construction with exaggerated darts gives the shirt a superb silhouette that is simultaneously classic and visionary.
As per the label, the shirt is crafted from an exceptionally fine cotton poplin with a soft texture and a crisp finish. The shoulders are narrow with high armholes, while the body is somewhat boxy with a contoured shape. The excess volume is shaped by diagonal darts on the front that add a point of sartorial interest. Similarly, the back features long vertical darts. These details have been a feature of Simons's shirting since his first collections and result in a unique cut that emphasizes the contours of the waist while maintaining a certain conservatism. The runway photos from S/S 2007 and S/S 2005 depict this style worn slightly oversized.
The modern look is complete with a straight hem and a strong-shaped small collar (a typical feature of Raf Simons shirt since the 1990s). The cuffs have a strong curvilinear shape, while the short cuff openings have sharp rectangular edges. All buttons are realised in genuine mother of pearl and are engraved with the Raf Simons logo. The interior is expertly finished with flat fell seams that ensure the longevity of the construction.
This classic shirt is a handsome demonstration of Simons's experiments with traditional menswear. Its interesting construction will make a discreet yet confident statement in any formal outfit.