2006 Laser-Cut Overlaid Knit Sleeveless Top
IT 48: Best for an IT 46 - 36 Chest - S or a slim IT 48 - 38 Chest - S/M.
Raf Simons top from S/S 2006 'Icarus Surgit'. In brand new condition without tags. Made in Belgium.
S/S 2006 marks the 10th year anniversary of the Raf Simons brand. Shown in Florence's Boboli Gardens for the Pitti Uomo fair, the runway presentation was accompanied by an extended video display of Simons's past output and the now coveted 'Raf Simons Redux' book. For the show, high-tech materials, intricate knits and futuristic laser-cut treatments set the tone for a beautiful collection that emphasized airiness, movement, and flight. This sleeveless top is undoubtedly one of the finest examples of Simons's inclination for textile experimentation, and one of the collection's signature pieces.
The visual cultures of the Punk and Rave movements have often been at the forefront of Raf Simons collections. In this piece, these inspirations are ingeniously refined and recontextualised. First, the sleeveless cut with a narrow neckline evokes the tops worn by the club-going Belgian teenagers Simons casted as models in his early runways. This shape has now become one of the designer's signature silhouettes. Likewise, unfinished fabrics and frayed knitwear can be reminiscent of Punk's DIY-inspired roughness; such elements were straightforwardly appropriated in Simons's 'Radioactivity' and 'Riot Riot Riot' collections. In this instance, however, the rebellious associations of frayed fabrics are abstracted to form a cobweb-esque decorative pattern.
The fabrication of this piece is truly remarkable in its appearance and execution. A crisp black cotton knit is overlaid with a slashed knit in tones of grey, off-white and clay. To achieve this striking texture, the latter fabric is stretched, precisely attached in a grid-like formation and then horizontally laser cut. Acting as an exoskeleton, the outer layer gives structure to the slim elongated cut while producing an extraordinary surface that looks like nothing else. The last picture depicts the fabric's interior side, and the armholes and neckline are finished with ribbed knit binding.
This unique top proves that Raf Simons is capable of elevating classic sportswear to couture-like showpieces, and will undoubtedly become one of the most cherished pieces in your wardrobe.