2001 Oversized Bomber Jacket with Detachable Sleeves
Size 50 (oversized): Best for any size between an IT 46 - 36 Chest - S and an IT 52 - 42 Chest - L.
Raf Simons bomber jacket from A/W 2001-2002 'Riot, Riot, Riot'. In brand new condition without tags. Made in Belgium. Archive sale RRP: £780
In March 2000, Raf Simons decided to temporarily shut down his company. Becoming increasingly confined by the label's commercial growth, he announced that he will take a sabbatical to re-evaluate his direction. A year later, Simons returns to fashion with the support of Belgian manufacturer Gysemans Clothing Group and presents some of his most radical work, A/W 2001 'Riot, Riot, Riot'. The collection was inspired by Richey Edwards, the disappeared guitarist of British band Manic Street Preachers. Isabella Burley from Clash Magazine explains:
'Raf saw Richey as an isolated hero. Intrigued by his magnetism, he dedicated his A/W ’01-’02 collection to his infamous disappearance. The show was titled Riot, Riot, Riot and was presented in a disused factory in Paris [...] Models were scouted from the streets of Antwerp and walked through an industrial set filled with smoke machines and scaffolding. The clothing was just as utilitarian and was made up of a uniform code of black, brown, khaki and dark blues. Camouflage bomber jackets were layered over long coats, whilst large hoods and scarves covered the models’ faces, obscuring their identities. Raf spent a lot of time looking back at archive images of Richey, editing, appropriating and then printed them onto patches. Documents included set-lists from Richey’s time in the Manics and the ‘Have you seen Richey?’ press release issued by South West Wales Police in February 1995. One of the most iconic images used was of Richey carving ‘4 REAL’ into his forearm following an argument with journalist Steve Lamacq in 1991. The act required hospitalization, seventeen stitches and turned Richey into an icon of self-harm. These images were sewn onto jacket sleeves, plastered onto the back of coats and printed on T-shirts. Raf created a uniform: a forty-four-look tribe of Richey gang members.'
This directional bomber jacket channels the collection's rugged, multi-layered aesthetic while maintaining the clean lines seen in Simon's late-90's outerwear. Like the high school gymnasium-inspired pieces shown for S/S 1999 and 2000, the cut is dramatically oversized with dropped shoulders and elongated proportions. On the back, an oversized rain shield creates an exaggerated silhouette. The fabric is a dense cotton with a waterproof coating that gives it a deep black colour with a slightly waxed finish. Military detailing and numerous zippers lend an aggressive edge to the piece. The zippers on the upper arms are paramount to both style and function, sharply outlining of the shoulders while allowing the sleeves to be removed to wear the jacket as a vest.
The jacket closes with a zip and polished popper studs. The front is adorned with a military-inspired bullet shell holder on the right chest, while the right sleeve has a zipped patch pocket. The waist features curvilinear pockets with an intricate three-dimensional construction which allows their lower part to slightly expand. The layered rain shield at the back attaches to the main body with a striking pyramid stitch detail. The cuffs and waistline are finished with chunky and soft ribbed wool knit. On the interior, the piece is fully lined in textured black cotton, while the neck features Simons's signature metal pull chain. Overall, the construction and finishing of this piece are of a very high standard like all early Raf Simons garments.
Being extremely ahead of its time, this rare bomber jacket exemplifies the unparalleled streetwear produced during Raf Simons's first decade. While being highly collectable and extremely hard to find -especially in unworn condition- it is rather easy to wear and would complement a variety of layered outfits.
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