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1999 Double Translucent Fine Cotton Military Liner Jacket

Helmut Lang

1999 Double Translucent Fine Cotton Military Liner Jacket


Size IT 38 (oversize): Best for an IT 44 - 34 Chest - XS, or any size between a Women's UK 12/US 8 and a UK 8/US 4.

Helmut Lang minimalist military jacket from S/S 1999. In very good used condition with minor signs of wear. Made in Italy.

For S/S 1999 Helmut Lang sought to emphasise the range and depth of his sartorial vision. An effortless attitude pervaded the show where the designer presented a comprehensive wardrobe for men and women, seamlessly integrating everything from militaristic streetwear to pristine tailoring and sophisticated couture creations. While the styling was relaxed and fairly casual, these were some of Lang's most innovative designs to date: For his Jeans line, the designer presented a series of strapped accessories and biker garments that would be presented again in the following winter collection. Those designs represent a period that is now remembered as one of his most iconic moments. On the mainline front, Lang's iconic saturated fuchsia colour (first seen in S/S 1994) made a remarkable appearance in the form of transparent tops and dresses, while a unique 'feathered' silk fabric was used in delicate tailoring.

This interesting jacket has a streamlined design inspired by military liners, garments intended to be worn under outerwear for additional insulation. Similar garments were shown extensively on Lang's A/W 1998 collection (pictured). The piece has a simple zipper closure that leads up to a collarless neckline, framed by raglan shoulders and fitted sleeves. The waistline has a slightly longer front with an angular shape that lends a subtly aggressive edge to the simple silhouette.

The jacket is crafted from a unique semi-translucent knit that Lang used extensively in the A/W 1998 and S/S 1999 collections. Although its composition is 100% cotton, its high quality yarn gives it firmness and a crisp texture that is more reminiscent of silks and synthetics. The fabric has been double layered to give the jacket a more opaque look while maintaining its delicate character. The finishing of the piece is flawless executed throughout with no visible seams on the interior, effectively making the piece reversible. 

To conclude, this piece is a typical example of Lang's much-coveted streetwear from the late 90's. Worn as outerwear or as a layering piece, its cutting-edge materials and streamlined details will make it an everyday favourite.

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