1997 Washed Nylon Twill Tailored Jacket
Size IT 46: Best for an IT 44 - 34 Chest - XS, a slim IT 46 - 36 Chest - S, a Women's UK 14/US 10 or a UK 12/US 8.
Helmut Lang nylon buttoned jacket from S/S 1997. In excellent used condition. Made in Italy.
Helmut Lang's S/S 1997 collection was a critical success that further solidified his status as the quiet avant-garde spirit of his generation. Focusing on the refinement of his personal vision rather than seasonal novelty, Lang showed his characteristic mix of clubwear-inspired separates, sharp suiting and sophisticated eveningwear. Unconventional decorative elements brought forth an element of unforeseen abstraction: Satin sashes in bold colours, contrasting nylon applications and shiny rubber screen prints set a vibrant tone, while lending a sport-inspired urgency to the sober fitted silhouettes. Deconstructed elements and abbreviated shapes were intricately layered and wrapped around the models' bodies, confusing and enticing the viewer. Lang's characteristic jersey dresses were restricted by straps, while silk trims in unexpected places redefined conventional luxury.
This beautiful light weight jacket offers a nuanced demonstration of Lang's resolute and eclectic approach to power dressing. At first glance, the jacket's pale ivory/yellow colour and unembellished form make it conservative and somewhat severe. On the other hand, its technical nylon fabric lends it a futuristic and sophisticated edge. This kind of play with seemingly contradictory elements is one of the defining paradigms of Lang's design ethos. The silhouette is precisely tailored with fitted shoulders and slim sleeves.
The piece is crafted from substantial nylon twill that has been washed extensively to create a pronounced gathered effect at the seams, similar to the finishing of military MA-2 bomber jackets. The material is smooth and hard wearing. The jacket's streamlined design is inspired by traditional men's tailoring and consists of a buttoned front that leads up to a distinctive point collar. Flap pockets adorn the waist, while precise darts give shape to the torso. The sleeves have an additional vertical seam that starts in the middle of the shoulder cap. The seam dissects the sleeve to form beautiful geometrical shapes, while emphasising the fabric's three-dimensional gathers. The cuffs are finished with four functional buttons. The seams of the unlined interior are bound with contrasting white sateen.
Classic and simultaneously cutting edge, this rare piece remains as relevant as when it was showcased 20 years ago. Its sharp lines and directional fabric make for a beautiful everyday staple that can be worn from day to night. Strongly recommended.