1997 Cotton Jersey Rugby Shirt with Rubberised Waist
Size M: Best for an IT 50 - 40 Chest - M or a large IT 48 - 38 Chest - S/M.
Helmut Lang shirt with rubber applications from A/W 1997-1998. In excellent used condition. Made in Italy.
For A/W 1997 -the first winter collection of his year-old Helmut Lang Jeans label-, Lang took the denim-based explorations of S/S 1997 to new heights of sophistication. While the runway show focused on the clean lines of Lang's tailoring, it is the streetwear that is now considered as some of his most covetable output: This collection introduces the iconic bulletproof vest, Lang's renown take on the M-51 military parka and several groundbreaking fabric treatments for denim. The iconic linear decorations seen on the S/S '97 show were present throughout the range: In this instance, the classicism of this rugby top is pleasantly offset by the application of a wide rubber stripe on the waist.
The top is made from a medium-weight cotton jersey with a soft texture and some stretch. The body has a slightly boxy cut, accentuated by the structured drape of the rubberised waist. The straight silhouette of the body is complemented by slim sleeves with high armholes. The neck has a small-shaped point collar, complete with a three mother-of-pearl button closure. Lang's signature workwear chest pocket adds simple detail to the clean design. While creating a subtle yet avant-garde point of interest, the rubber detailing has a very interesting texture and firm drape. Similar to the finishes of traditional waterproof outerwear, it has a deep luster with interesting irregularities that suggest the process was done by hand.
Overall, Helmut Lang's basic pieces often capture the designer's forward-thinking vision at its best. This bold top would add a refined graphic element to any contemporary outfit.