2005 Overdyed Stretch Twill Slim 1 Pocket Jacket with Zipper Front
Size IT 48: Best for an IT 48 - 38 Chest - S or a slim IT 50 - 40 Chest - M/L.
Helmut Lang zip-front denim jacket from S/S 2005. In excellent used condition. Made in Italy.
'The word "define" seems key to Lang's vision. Some designers are all about short-term looks, their collections changing completely from season to season. But Lang's is more of an investigative process, starting from his basic shapes and extrapolating from them into whatever style takes his mood. Within this, the definition of the pieces - how they sit on the wearer, what they cover and what they reveal, what mood they reflect, what function they perform - is imperative.'
- Charlie Porter in The Guardian, February 2003 (my emphasis)
In my view, the '1 Pocket' jacket is Helmut Lang's definitive denim jacket. Introduced in the late 90s, it encapsulates Lang's minimalist approach, where sophistication is achieved through conceptually rich designs with an emphasis on luxurious fabrics and outmost precision. Here, the classic mid-century 'trucker' jacket is masterfully reduced to its basic form. The classic front panels are absent in favour of a cleaner construction, while the usual storage compartments have given their place to a single chest pocket shaped like the back pockets of jeans. The result is a timelessly modern piece with an understated yet directional aesthetic.
This version of the jacket from the S/S 2005 collection (the brand's final summer season) features a heavyweight zipper closure instead of buttons, giving the piece a more futuristic and purist character. The fabric is a medium weight cotton twill that has been washed and overdyed to achieve a deeper colour with a vintage finish. The soft material has a slightly raised texture and contains a small percentage of elastane that gives it some stretch, making the piece a pleasure to wear. Its colour is a desaturated midnight blue/grey. The jacket has Lang's slim cut, which maintains the sharpness of the classic cut but with a slightly narrower shoulderline and slim sleeves. A distinctive point collar and waist tabs complete the design.
The construction of this piece is excellent and hard-wearing like all Helmut Lang denim garments. Precise lines and absolute symmetry highlight the designer's attention-to-detail, while honouring the design's traditional workwear origins. The edges of the chest pocket are reinforced with rivets. The hardware has a vintage gunmetal finish and is engraved with the Helmut Lang logo and the chunky zipper is made by Lampo in Italy. On the inside, flat-fell seams protect the interior from undesirable fraying while making the jacket reversible and indestructible.
To conclude, this jacket is a strong demonstration of Helmut Lang menswear's subtle sophistication. Its idiosyncratic detailing and unconventional fabrication give it a certain elegance that makes it highly relevant despite being designed nearly 15 years ago. Strongly recommended.