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2005 Cotton Canvas Sartorial Chesterfield Coat with Hand-Finished Details

Helmut Lang

2005 Cotton Canvas Sartorial Chesterfield Coat with Hand-Finished Details


IT 46 - 36 Chest - S: Can also fit a large IT 44 - 34 Chest - XS or a Women's UK 12/US 8.

Helmut Lang hand-tailored coat from S/S 2005. In excellent used condition. Made in Italy.

S/S 2005 was Helmut Lang's final runway presentation before label owners Prada Group discontinued the label and sold its rights to Link Theory Holdings, a subsidiary of Fast Retailing Co. Following the mature approach of A/W '04, the collection combined many of Lang's signatures with the subculture-inspired narrative of his later years. The look was decidedly post-minimalist, with an emphasis on clean surfaces and subtle details that took the form of nautical knots and fishing equipment. In the showroom, buyers noted that fabrics were at the collection's forefront, demonstrated in their innovative weaves and surface treatments.

The classic Chesterfield coat is one of Lang's most iconic pieces. Introduced for A/W 1993, it encapsulates his visually resolute and streamlined approach to power dressing. This unique hand-finished sartorial version was exclusive to S/S 2005, and is a truly exceptional find. The piece is crafted from slightly textured cotton canvas with 2% elastane for increased comfort. An unusual choice for outerwear, the medium-weight fabric has a structured drape that complements the coat's clean lines. The silhouette is slimmer than earlier versions of the design; the body has a fitted straight cut, with narrow shoulders and skinny sleeves.

An abundance of exceptional details set this piece apart from Lang's classic Chesterfield coats. Elegant pick-stitching done by hand decorates the front along the lapels, collar and pockets, executed with outmost precision using thick thread for a more pronounced effect. This exquisite detail gives an ornate sartorial finish to the piece that is seldom seen in designer garments nowadays. The front has a concealed three-button closure, while the back has a short buttoned vent. All buttons are made from matte tonal resin in line with the piece's minimalist aesthetic.

Extensive hand-finishing can be observed throughout the piece: The undercollar features hand-sewn felt in a marbled tonal hue that looks beautiful when worn up. The concealed placket is also hand-finished with a separate lining.  The interior is fully lined in a light and silky cupro blend and features two buttoned pockets. The lining has been attached by hand on the shoulders. Finally, the cuffs are finished with functional buttonholes, another unusual feature for Lang. 

A beautiful garment of exceptional quality, this coat demonstrates Helmut Lang's renown tailoring at its very best. Timeless yet subtly innovative, it is a sophisticated and luxurious everyday garment that can be integrated into a variety of outfits. Strongly recommended. 

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