2004 French Blue Melange Jersey 'Janus in Leather Jacket' T-Shirt (Short Fit)
Size M (unmarked): Best for any size between a IT 50 - 40 Chest - M and an IT 44 - 34 Chest - XS. Can also be worn oversize by women sized between UK 14/US 10 and UK 10/US 6.
Helmut Lang x Louise Bourgeois collaboration T-shirt from A/W 2004-2005. In excellent used condition. Made in Italy.
A/W 2004-2005 is one of my favourite Helmut Lang menswear collections. Merging the finesse of his 1990's work with the intricately detailed sophistication of his final years, Lang presented a wardrobe where classic masculinity and avant-garde transgressions sit effortlessly side-by-side. An amalgamation of textures and materials referenced Lang's influential body of work; moleskin cotton, silk sateen, steel, coated buffalo leather, raw denim. The styling subverted typical notions of luxury and streetwear, balancing precision with chaos. At the same time, covert details created complex narratives that gave considerable depth to each look.
This T-shirt was one of the collection's signature basics and features a depiction of Louise Bourgeois's sculpture 'Janus in Leather Jacket' on the front. The back is decorated with Helmut Lang's logo, followed by 'New York Milano Paris'. This piece can be seen in the permanent collection of the Museum of Fine Arts Boston. Lang's original press release reads:
'LOUISE BOURGEOIS AND HELMUT LANG COLLABORATE ON A LIMITED EDITION OF SCARVES AND T-SHIRTS
Helmut Lang has designed a limited edition of scarves and T-shirts for his men's Autumn/Winter 04/05 collection, with a print of the sculpture Janus in Leather Jacket by artist Louise Bourgeois, Lang's friend and collaborator.
Bourgeois created the bronze sculpture in 1968; the print was chosen by Lang and Bourgeois specifically for Lang's Autumn/Winter 04/05 collection.
Janus, the Roman god of beginnings and the guardian of gates and doors, is historically depicted by two faces looking in opposite directions. He was worshipped at the beginning of their planting time, harvest, marriage, birth and other important beginnings in a person's life. He represents the transition between primitive life and civilization, between rural and urban existence and the balance between youth and old age.
"Janus swings in both directions. Its double head is one head looking to the past and one head looking to the future," says Bourgeois.
Lang and Bourgeois have collaborated on several occasions, including the 1998 exhibit at the Kunsthalle Vienna, together with Jenny Holzer. Most recently, Lang designed a limited edition T-shirt with a print by Louise Bourgeois for the F/W 03/04 collection.
The T-shirts and cashmere-silk scarves are available in a variety of colors at Helmut Lang shops and selected stores worldwide.' (my emphasis)
The prints have been applied using black discharge ink. This technique produces a more neutral matte texture that complements the rich french blue melange colour of the piece. The heather jersey fabric has a medium weight with considerable stretch and a soft brushed texture that feels pleasant against the skin. The silhouette is semi-fitted with a waist-length body, featuring side seams that spiral towards the right to enhance the top's drape when it is worn. The crew neckline is finished with ribbed trim.
Documenting the friendship of two artists that are now seen as avant-garde pioneers in their respective practices, this piece is a quintessential Helmut Lang basic. Its tasteful decoration and high quality fabric make it ideal for everyday wear.