2004 Bondage Biker Jacket with D-rings and Zipped Kilt

IT 48 - 38 Chest - S/M: Can also fit a slim IT 50 - 40 Chest - M.

Helmut Lang bondage biker jacket from S/S 2004. In excellent used condition. Made in Italy.

S/S 2004 is one of Helmut Lang's most famous seasons and many of its captivating designs are now part of modern fashion history. One of the collection's strongest themes was the' 'iridescent color' and 'lightness of structure' of dragonflies. Lang's typical sharp silhouettes were intensified by abstracted shapes, elastic straps, cut-outs and unexpected splashes of reflective materials. The collection's iconic biker jackets are some of the most coveted pieces from Lang's final years, and have been a source of inspiration for many of today's avant-garde and mainstream fashion designers. Stylistically, they combine the post-minimalist deconstruction of Lang's later seasons with punk and military-inspired elements.

This spectacular piece demonstrates many of the legendary season's iconic features including strapped elbow detailing, multiple zipped pockets, a beautiful multi-panelled construction and a removable kilt with heavy D-rings. A heavy and substantial garment, the jacket is made from robust and heavyweight cotton gabardine with a dense weave. This luxurious fabric has a slightly lustrous finish and structured drape that complement its intricate three-dimensional design. The cut is slim and form-fitting, with defined shoulders, a tapered body and slim sleeves.

The jacket is adorned with an abundance of interesting and subversive details that demonstrate the sophistication of Lang's output during his final years as a designer. The front has an asymmetrical zip closure with an oversized collar that can stand up or be secured to the body with concealed press studs. There are three diagonal zipped pockets and a single flap pocket with a stud button engraved with the Helmut Lang logo. The waist features a belt with a heavy metal buckle and metal rivets. The sleeves have a beautiful articulated shape with zipped cuffs and separate underarm panels with metal rivets. The lower back has two attached sets of D-rings that can be connected to the kilt with grosgrain tapes. The kilt is attached on the interior with a Riri zipper.

The jacket's construction and finishing are just as intriguing as the directional design. A level of polished minimalism is maintained through the use of sleek silver hardware that complements the beautiful gabardine fabric. Like many Helmut Lang jackets from this period, the front zipper has an oversized length that extends slightly below the hem. Furthermore, all zippers are heavyweight Lampo and feel very luxurious, with chunky military pulls and grosgrain tape tabs. The upper back features sharp geometrical panels and has an impressive 'bi-swing' construction that enables the sleeves to extend from the body; this way the arms can move freely without compromising on the sharp silhouette. The interior is fully lined in a textured brushed cotton and has two large pockets. The sleeves are lined in a soft cupro/viscose blend.

Helmut Lang's work during his final years in fashion produced some seriously amazing garments that demonstrated his sheer talent and groundbreaking vision. Lang's bondage-inspired detailing is one of his most iconic touches and this rare jacket could be part of someone's personal wardrobe as much as it could be displayed in a modern art museum.