2003 Stretch Cotton Slim 1-Pocket Jacket with Asymmetric Pockets
IT 48 - 38 Chest - S/M: Can also fit an IT 50 - 40 Chest - M.
Helmut Lang asymmetric denim-style jacket from S/S 2003. In excellent used condition with minor signs of wear. Made in Italy.
In our view, S/S 2003 was one of the most sophisticated collections in Helmut Lang's career. Drawing inspiration from a diverse variety of sources ranging from 1990s clubwear, Seditionaries-style layering and technical surfing gear to traditional tailoring, he created a complex yet aesthetically harmonious world where radical deconstruction met luxe modernity. Many of the details that defined Lang's clubwear-cum-couture collections from the mid-1990s were present, highlighting his emphasis on long-term refinement rather than seasonal novelty. Unfortunately many of the collection's directional designs were manufactured in limited numbers, or not produced at all.
This piece is one of the most unconventional denim-style jackets Lang has designed for men, and its unique details were exclusive to this collection. Instead of denim, the designer has opted for a lightweight stretch cotton with a soft drape and matte finish. This clean and minimalist fabric gives a streamlined character to the directional design: The details are based on Lang's classic 1-pocket trucker jacket, however the pocket side is constructed without a yoke panel on the upper torso. Conversely, the right side has a yoke construction with a horizontal pocket placed along the reinforced seam. The result is an abstract and asymmetric design that remains subtle and sophisticated like much of Helmut Lang's menswear. The silhouette is straight on the body and slightly fitted, with narrow shoulders and longer sleeves.
The piece is finished with an abundance of thoughtful construction details that further set it apart from typical denim jackets. The reinforced flat fell seams used throughout produce slight tension on the soft fabric, creating a slightly gathered or ruched effect similar to the seams of classic MA-1 bomber jackets. This is particularly evident on the back, which is constructed with a beautiful vertical seam. The waist is finished without tabs for a cleaner look, while the logo-engraved hardware has a vintage black finish that complements the dark colours of the piece. Finally, the concealed pocket on the right chest is reinforced with circular bar tack stitches that create simple detail.
Quietly unconventional and uncompromisingly modern, this jacket is a beautiful demonstration of Lang's timelessly relevant menswear. Besides being one of the rarest denim-style jackets he has designed, it is also a versatile design that will make for an ideal spring/summer piece.