1999 Silk Organza Biker Jacket with Destroyed Padding
IT 44: Best for an IT 46 - 36 chest - S or an IT 48 - 38 chest - S/M.
Helmut Lang silk biker jacket from A/W 1999-2000. In brand new condition without tags, with replacement buttons. Made in Italy. RRP: $3490 (£2268)
A/W 1999-2000 is seen by many as one of Helmut Lang's most groundbreaking seasons, whose directional pieces are just as relevant today as when they were designed. Inspired by astronaut uniforms, motorcycle safety gear and rave subcultures, Lang created a subversively elegant and uncompromisingly modern universe that has since then inspired a long list of designers. These have ranged from household names like Balenciaga's Nicolas Ghesquière, Balmain's Christophe Decarnin and Burberry Prorsum's Christopher Bailey to avant-garde pioneers like Raf Simons and Rick Owens. One of the collection's signature pieces, this short biker jacket was worn by both men and women in many runway looks. Unlike the cotton and nylon fabrics that were typically used for this design, this fascinating piece is the most luxurious and fascinating version, realised in luxurious padded silk.
The jacket has a slim cut, with narrow shoulders and elongated articulated sleeves. The fabrics are exquisite and look like nothing else we have ever seen from Helmut Lang or any other designer. The main material is a precious see-through silk organza. Its diaphanous quality artfully reveals the jacket's padded construction that has been boiled and distressed, creating a breathtaking three-dimensional surface with pronounced texture variations reminiscent of cobwebs. This ingenious use of fabrics represents Helmut Lang's avant-garde experimentation at its very best.
Besides its incredible fabrication and elegant cut, the jacket features an abundance of details that further demonstrate Lang's timeless appeal. The front closes with a concealed heavy metal zipper and buttons. Aggressive metal Lampo zippers adorn the sleeve cuffs and waist hem. All hardware has a deep black finish that complements the jacket's sharp look. The sleeves have a three-dimensional construction that follows the lines of the body. The neck has an exaggerated funnel shape with a wired construction that enables adjustment of its shape and is finished with drawstrings. On the interior, Lang's signature bondage carry straps are realized in black silk. Extra rows of buttonholes can be used to attach other underlayer items from the collection.
Needless to say, the finishing of this piece is done to a couture standard. Due to the semi-transparent nature of the piece, all stitches and seams are visible from the outside and are executed in absolute precision. For example, the subtle shoulder pad seams create elegant geometrical lines, while completely exposing the details of their construction. Likewise, the chest features beautifully executed Dior darts and Lang's signature inside-out pocket on the right side.
Overall, this is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to acquire the most luxurious and haunting version of one of Helmut Lang's most iconic designs. This garment exemplifies Helmut Lang's groundbreaking vision and could be part of someone's personal wardrobe as much as it could be displayed in a modern art museum.