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1999 Vintage Resinated Cotton High-Neck Bomber Jacket (Military Green)

Helmut Lang

1999 Vintage Resinated Cotton High-Neck Bomber Jacket (Military Green)


IT 40 (unisex): Best for an IT 44 - 34 chest - XS, a slim IT 46 - 36 chest - S or a Women's UK 10 - US 8

Helmut Lang bomber blouson with funnel neck from S/S 1999. In excellent used condition with minor signs of wear. Made in Italy.

Although this piece is part of the S/S 1999 collection, it was originally presented a year earlier. S/S 1998 was a great success that highlighted many of the elements that became synonymous with Lang's 90s menswear. His aesthetic was embraced by creatives who appreciated sophisticated design yet had little interest in the whims of high fashion, and this show epitomised his transgressive appeal: Sportswear crafted from innovative technical fabrics was paired with crisp white shirts, minimalist suiting and Lang's classic jeans in beautiful vintage finishes. The overall atmosphere was tightly controlled and minimalist, yet the clothes maintained an effortless and utterly cool attitude which gave gravitas to even the simplest of outfits. In my view, never before had Lang's menswear collections reached this kind of sophistication.

Bomber jackets have acquired 'grail' status among Lang cognoscenti, including collectors such as The Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute. This particular version has a streamlined design inspired by German Air Force (Luftwaffe) bomber jackets. The front has a zipper closure that leads up to an aggressive funnel neck. The neckline, waistband and cuffs are finished with crisp ribbed cotton knit. A vertical zipped pocket on the left side of the torso (one of the original military design's most distinctive features) adds simple detail. Likewise, the left sleeve is finished with a classic MA-1-style patch pocket. The cut is defined by trim shoulders and a slightly tapered body that finishes at the waist.

The piece is crafted from cotton canvas that has been overdyed, washed and resin-coated. These processes give a deep vintage colour and a textured surface to the medium-weight fabric. The detailing of this piece demonstrates Lang's thoughtful attention to detail: the underarms feature curvilinear panels with ventilation slits. The knit trims on the cuffs and waist have reinforced horizontal stitches on their interior side for increased durability. The interior is fully lined with brushed cotton on the body, soft viscose/acetate sateen on the sleeves and is finished with a buttoned pocket and a military-style square patch pocket.

This coveted jacket is a testament to Helmut Lang's affinity for military garments, re-interpreted in line with his refined vision. Combining a well thought-out construction with timelessly relevant details, it is a true wardrobe essential.

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