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1998 Translucent Fine Cotton T-Shirt with Military Shoulder Pocket

Helmut Lang

1998 Translucent Fine Cotton T-Shirt with Military Shoulder Pocket


Size IT 44 (unmarked): Best for an IT 44 - 34 Chest - XS or a slim IT 46 - 36 Chest - S. Can also be worn by women sized UK 12/US 8 and a UK 8/US 4.

Helmut Lang shoulder pocket long-sleeve top from A/W 1998-1999. In excellent used condition with minor signs of wear. Made in Italy.

1998 was a very important year for Helmut Lang. The company relocated its offices from Vienna to Manhattan, making it the first fashion house to change continent, while the runway presentations move from Paris to New York. Later that year, was launched and A/W 1998-1999 was the first fashion collection to be presented online. Besides these influential firsts, A/W 1998-1999 is seen as one of Lang's seminal collections, showcasing the first major exploration of the abstract and layered streetwear that became synonymous with his late 90s output. The main source of inspiration was contemporary military uniforms, which had been a recurrent theme in Lang's designs since the decade's beginnings. Still, unlike previous seasons where the appropriation of military forms was straightforward and clear-cut, A/W 1998-1999 showcased a variety of unique garments whose aesthetic, detailing and execution were characteristically Lang.

This T-shirt captures the collection's militaristic spirit while highlighting Lang's penchant for unconventional fabrics. Originally presented for A/W 1997, the long-sleeve design features a rectangular patch pocket on the left shoulder that lends a subtly aggressive edge to the otherwise minimalist piece. The silhouette is sharp and form-fitting with slightly dropped shoulders, a wide crew neckline and long skinny sleeves. 

The piece is crafted from a unique semi-translucent knit that Lang used extensively in the A/W 1998 and S/S 1999 collections. Although its composition is 100% cotton, its high quality yarn gives it firmness and a crisp texture that is more reminiscent of silks and synthetics. Furthermore, it is light and translucent enough to show the skin without being too revealingThe clean design is finished with narrow self-fabric binding around the neckline.

Precisely detailed and beautifully crafted, this piece offers a strong example of the subtle transgressions that defined Lang's work in the 1990s. While having historical importance, its clean details and timeless shape make it highly relevant despite its age. Strongly recommended.

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