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1997 Calf Leather Simple 2 Pocket Jacket with Waist Panel

Helmut Lang

1997 Calf Leather Simple 2 Pocket Jacket with Waist Panel


Size IT 42: Best for a Women's UK 12/US 8, a UK 10/US 6 or a slim IT 44 - 34 Chest - XS.

Helmut Lang leather trucker jacket from A/W 1997-1998. In excellent used condition with minor signs of wear. Made in Italy.

For the Helmut Lang Jeans A/W 1997 collection (the first winter season of the year-old line), Lang took the denim-centred explorations of S/S 1997 to new heights of sophistication. While the runway presentation focused on soft translucent layers and the clean lines of his mainline tailoring, the Jeans line's sportswear is now considered to be some of Lang's most covetable output. As part of this range Lang introduces the iconic 'bulletproof' vest, his renown take on the M-51 military parka and several groundbreaking shapes and fabric treatments for denim.

This jacket is Lang's 'Simple 2 Pocket' design, a streamlined form loosely based on Levi's 557XX jacket from the early 1960's. The early versions of this design (from 1997 and S/S 1998) feature militaristic rectangular chest pockets. Unlike the Levi's original, Lang has reduced the number of panels on the torso and added a horizontal panel on the waist. The result is understated yet directional. Instead of denim, the designer has used soft calf leather with a smooth texture and a finely grained surface. The luxurious material's soft drape and dull luster give depth and elegance to the piece. The silhouette is timelessly sharp with a semi-fitted straight body and high armholes that give definition to the shoulders. A distinctive point collar completes the design.

The finishing of this piece is thoughtful and uncompromising. Precise lines and absolute symmetry highlight the designer's attention-to-detail, while honouring the design's traditional workwear origins. The buttoned cuffs are finished with pleats. The hardware has a contrasting matte silver finish and is engraved with the Helmut Lang logo. The interior is fully lined in deep black viscose sateen that feels pleasant against the skin. 

An exceptionally rare find, this unusual jacket is a beautiful example of Helmut Lang's transformative experiments with American workwear. Leather garments from the Helmut Lang Jeans range are hard to find and certainly take the designer's minimalist aesthetic a step forward. Strongly recommended.

The modelled product photos are property of FarFetch.

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