1995 Fine Nylon Dress with Transparent Panel
IT 42: Best for a Women's UK 8/US 6 or a UK 10/US 8.
Helmut Lang mini dress from S/S 1995. In brand new condition without tags. Made in Italy. RRP: £420
Helmut Lang's S/S 1995 collection was a major success for the up-and-coming Austrian designer. Sharp silhouettes were realised in translucent and transparent textiles, citing 'Parisian chic, Hawaiian surf culture [and] the beat of techno' as inspiration. From US Vogue's January 1995 issue:
'"What I find modern is the balanced use of both traditional fabrics and new textiles," says Helmut Lang, whose balancing act for spring involves mixing cotton, wool and leather with high-tech nylon, lacquered organza and synthetics designed to reflect light. Equally important: the simple shapes that take on a sophisticated glamour, thanks to Lang's futuristic fabrics. There are cigarette thin pants, jackets cut as close as shirts, skinny skirts, fitted T-shirts, and tank dresses. "It's the idea of combining well-known quality with new surfaces that makes them exciting," says the designer.' (our emphasis)
The dress has a classic straight silhouette, cut like an elongated tank top. The simplicity of its construction gives emphasis to its directional details: the neckline has an asymmetric round shape, while a transparent horizontal panel defines the chest area. One of the collection's most iconic touches, the transparent material is made from a mix of woven plastic fibers that subtly reveal what is worn underneath. In our view, this is a detail that captures the essence of Lang's restrained yet sensual approach.
The main body of the dress is crafted from a fine nylon fabric that has been coated to give it a lustrous surface with a velvet-like texture. Lang's signature engraved metal plaque adorns the left side of the chest. The interior is finished entirely with French seams that protect the fine fabrics while reducing bulk.
Helmut Lang created subversively elegant and abstract garments that combined the classic with the avant-garde. This is an extremely rare opportunity to acquire a piece from one of Lang's most coveted early collections in unworn condition.