2006 Vintage Twill Military Blouson with Pocket Details
IT 46 - 36 chest - S: Can also fit a slim IT 48 - 38 chest - S/M.
Dior Homme by Hedi Slimane military jacket from S/S 2006 'The World Was A Mess But His Hair Was Perfect'. In excellent used condition. Made in Romania.
Although this piece is part of Dior Homme's S/S 2006 collection, its distinctive military style is reminiscent of earlie Hedi Slimane seasons and particularly S/S 2005 and A/W 2005 'In the Morning' (pictured). For these collections, Slimane found inspiration in the streetwear worn by American teenagers. Cathy Horyn explains:
'Mr. Slimane's [S/S 2005] Dior show was marked by sullenness, restlessness and, in a way, the rootlessness of the young lives that influence him. ''I wanted everything to look natural, like the boys dressed themselves,'' he said. Few designers are as concentrated on the continually changing world. The moment is his medium, and Mr. Slimane interprets it in all its banality and sweetness -- with shrunken jackets, beautiful pin-tucked voile shirts [...] and the tightest, lowest-riding jeans in the business. You can see the influence of the West Coast skate and rock world, which has caught his interest. He has published a book of his photographs of rock concerts, called ''Stage.'' And like his clothes, its view of Bowie, Beck and the Stones is gauzy, reverent and curiously abstract.'
This blouson is largely inspired by military surplus classics such as the M-1965 field jacket with its classic flapped pockets. The original design's proportions, utilitarian features and construction are given a radical rework, in line with the detailed-oriented approach that epitomises Slimane's sportswear from this period. Like most Dior Homme outerwear, the jacket has a slim cut with narrow shoulders and a fitted body. The sleeves have a curved silhouette that follows the lines of the arms, while the strong-shaped cuffs fall below the wrists. The fabric is a robust cotton twill with a subtle vintage treatment that produces a soft, slightly broken-in finish.
The jacket's ornate, flawlessly executed finishing demonstrates Slimane's wonderful attention to detail appeal. On the chest, two large three-dimensional chest pockets feature buttoned vertical panels that evoke Slimane's iconic 'Napoleon' designs. The waist pockets have ornate reverse pleats and secure with large concealed buttons. An additional welt pocket is found on the pocket flaps. Similar storage compartments can be found on the cuffs, which are finished with a layered flap and two buttons. The cuffs' outer side is decorated with heavy X-shaped military-inspired topstitching. The back has a short yoke and features Dior Homme's signature darts.
The front has a collar that can stand up and closes with snap buttons and a double zipper. The hardware has a beautiful antique brass finish and features Dior Homme engravings. Likewise, all buttons are made from light brown buffalo horn with pronounced colour variations. The interior is partially lined and features two large vertical pockets. The jacket's unlined parts are finished with precise binding and flat fell seams, essentially making the piece reversible.
Overall, the blouson's precise finishing creates a sharp modernity that is quintessential Slimane, luxuriously updating the rugged military style. A luxurious and versatile casual staple, this jacket will age wonderfully over time and will lend itself well to a variety of casual outfits.