2011 Bonded Twill Biker Trench Coat with Leather and Metal Details
IT 48 - 38 Chest - S/M: Can also fit a slim IT 50 - 40 Chest - M.
Burberry Prorsum biker trench coat from S/S 2011. In excellent used condition with minor fading. Made in Italy. RRP: $2395 (£1524)
S/S 2011 was another grand success for Burberry and Christopher Bailey. Many of A/W 2010-2011's signature pieces were stripped down and decorated with leather and metal trims. Tim Blanks writes:
'Christopher Bailey's trip to the Burberry archives last season helped him to the best men's collection of his career with the company, and he hit pay dirt again with Spring's return visit. A stash of early twentieth-century biker gear designed by the very forward-thinking Thomas Burberry gave him the idea for his "heritage biker" collection. It was another spectacular outing. Bailey may have made his rep with collections that leaned toward wistful melancholia, but the harder he goes, the better the clothes seem to get. [...] Fall's precise military-influenced tailoring was still obvious in khaki trenches and naval officer's coats, but here they'd been given details like leather epaulettes and studded belts.' (our emphasis)
This coat was undoubtedly the collection's most coveted trench-inspired piece, and was featured extensively in the runway show, seasonal campaign and subsequent editorials. Inspired by mid-century despatch coats, it features a variety of iconic leather details as well as the collection's signature metal details. The result is an aggressive piece of outerwear that tastefully merges classic and avant-garde.
The cut is sharp and structured with softly padded shoulders and slim sleeves. The button stance and belt are placed slightly higher on the waist for a flattering effect. The oversized peak lapels lead up to a strong stand-up collar decorated with a thick leather strap. Similar leather detailing on the epaulettes and cuffs enhances the strong silhouette while creating a sharp elegance. Likewise, the belt attaches to the body with large metal loops and features an ornate leather strap. On the interior, long straps can be used to secure the coat to the legs like traditional rider outerwear. The fabric is a thick bonded cotton poplin that has been coated with polyurethane to create a robust and hard-wearing material with a smooth texture and beautiful performance over time.
The coat exemplifies Burberry's reputation for astounding craftsmanship. Symmetrical gun flaps on the front and a kick pleat on the back rain shield add a modern touch to the heritage-inspired design. The belt is finished with a handcrafted leather buckle and two rows of metal eyelets. Likewise, the underarms feature sets of six large eyelets that enhance the ventilation of the piece while enhancing the aggressive design. Additional buttoned tabs can be used to further secure the front opening as well as the long vent opening. The latter has a covered construction that protects from the elements without compromising the wearer's movements. All leather details are flawlessly hand-edged like all traditionally made leather goods. The luxurious metal hardware has a matte black finish, while the large buttons are made from slightly contrasting resin engraved with the Prorsum logo. Upon inspecting the unlined interior, we can see that the buttons are backed to ensure they do not detach, whereas the metal belt loops are reinforced with pieces of thick leather.
Overall, this piece is remembered as a stand-out in Christopher Bailey's career at Burberry. While being a favourite among collectors, it will surely impress anyone who can appreciate luxurious design.