1995 Fine Double Polyester Blouson with Gold Sleeves
IT 46 - 36 Chest - S. Can also fit an IT 48 - 38 Chest - S/M or a slim IT 50 - 40 Chest - M.
Helmut Lang zipped jacket with contrasting sleeves from A/W 1995-1996. In brand new condition with minor storage wear. Made in Italy.
Helmut Lang's output was rarely defined by seasonal themes. Design elements from his early collections were often reworked and reiterated until the label's demise, highlighting Lang's emphasis on refinement rather than novelty. The classic zipped blouson is a prime example of this attitude: First introduced in the early 1990s, it is one of Lang's interseasonal staples and was produced every season in different fabrics and finishes. Its effortless aesthetic evokes sophistication and understatement (pictured: S/S 1998 and S/S 1992).
The A/W 1995 collection was a bold step towards the establishment of the Austrian designer as one of his generation's foremost avant-garde voices. Carrying on the previous collections' high fashion clubwear aesthetic, Lang opted for combinations of synthetic and natural materials that gave a classic extravagance to the ensembles. Many of Lang's signatures at the time -sheer layers, reflective details and clean silhouettes- were present, however there was a certain sobriety that is more often associated with traditional eveningwear. In line with this approach, this one-of-a-kind version of the zipped blouson features contrasting gold applications on the sleeves that lend an avant-garde elegance to the minimalist design.
The piece is crafted from finely woven double-layered polyester with a smooth texture and a semi-matte finish. The silhouette is straight and precisely oversize on the torso, with subtle details such as the high armholes and narrow sleeves adding sharpness while maintaining a relaxed line. Overall, the construction of this piece is flawless and very much representative of Lang's unembellished approach, with ample attention devoted to every detail. A polished silver zipper closure leads up to a chunky point collar, while Lang's signature rectangular patch pocket adds simple detail to the chest. The waist tabs are reversed and placed further towards the front. Likewise, the cuffs have a simple slit construction for a cleaner look. The interior is excellently finished with flat fell seams echoing the construction of the exterior, thereby making this piece reversible.
Thoroughly modern and beautifully constructed, this rare jacket is a striking yet accessible example of Lang's timeless approach to contemporary menswear. Despite having been designed over twenty years ago, its timeless design is proof of the enduring relevance of Lang's work as a fashion designer. Furthermore, it is in unworn condition, and we believe nothing like it will ever resurface again.