2003 Check Cotton Oversized Bondage Shirt with Buttoned Sides
Size 52 (oversized): Best for any size between an IT 44 - 34 Chest - XS and an IT 54 - 44 Chest - L/XL.
Raf Simons strapped shirt from A/W 2003-2004 'Closer'. In excellent used condition. Made in Belgium.
This distinctive shirt was first seen on Simons's A/W 02 'Virginia Creeper (Parthenocissus Quinquefolia' collection; variations of the design also appeared in S/S 03 'Consumed' and A/W 05 'History of my World'. This version carries on the original release's rugged and intricately layered aesthetic, as described by Antwerp's MoMu Fashion Museum below:
'Coats are heavy and loose - almost dripping off the body. Sleeveless padded jackets, hooded, parka-like coats and adventure-style jacquard sweaters are worn on top of each other, to create a 'explorer-of-nature' feel. [...] Also referring to the swamp scenery is a surprising bondage theme. Surprising as the bondage look is not used to restrict or confine the body. Instead, thick harnesses of ribbons are 'draped' over voluminous coats and baggy trousers similar to an imaginary safety net.' (our emphasis)
This time, however, in line with the 'Closer' collection's vintage British atmosphere, the piece is crafted from an Oxford cotton check fabric. A rather unexpected choice, the high quality cloth has a minimalist pattern consisting of black and purple squares on a pale blue background. The fabric's smooth texture and overall formality contrast greatly with the design's unconventional aesthetic and dramatic proportions.
Most interestingly, straps draped loosely across the body create an aggressive edge, and can be buttoned in different positions to create different looks. Likewise, long tabs on the sleeves' interior allow them to be nonchalantly bunched up. Both sides of the body feature button closures that add further interest to the piece when in motion. The cut is dramatic and exaggerated with an oversized straight body, dropped shoulders and wide, elongated sleeves.
The shirt's finishing is quintessential Simons, featuring many of the designer's signature details. The collar is small and chunky, creating a playful juxtaposition with the oversized cut. The back features long side pleats. The hem is curved and slightly shorter on the front. The cuffs have a strong curvilinear shape and are finished with two pleats. All buttons are realised in tonal genuine mother of pearl.
A very interesting example of Raf's highly venerated subculture-inspired work, this directional shirt is a true rarity. Its unique styling and oversized cut will add a bold avant-garde touch to any contemporary wardrobe.