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2002 Raw Silk Denim Slit-Pocket Jacket with Turn Up Sleeves

Helmut Lang

2002 Raw Silk Denim Slit-Pocket Jacket with Turn Up Sleeves

£190.00

IT 40: Best for a Women's UK 8 - US 6 or a UK 10 - US 8.

Helmut Lang raw silk denim jacket with elongated sleeves from S/S 2002. In excellent used condition. Made in Italy.

We have often argued that Helmut Lang's work was catalytic in the transformation of classic denim staples to sophisticated high fashion pieces. An examination of Lang's output reveals that American denim jackets were a strong source of inspiration for the Austrian designer, who in turn created countless garments influenced by their iconic detailing and proportions.

One of Lang's most iconic creations is undoubtedly the 'turn up' jacket, constructed with extra long sleeves that can be either cuffed or let down to achieve an exaggerated silhouette. This detail was introduced for A/W 1995 and has since then become one of the brand's most recognisable signatures. This version from S/S 2002 has Lang's 'slit pocket' design. Introduced in 1997, it is a bold reinterpretation of mid-century trucker jackets, streamlining many of their original features to their structural essence: The torso is constructed with a simple horizontal yoke panel, while the long diagonal lines typically seen on denim jackets have been omitted in favour of a cleaner shape. Likewise, the chest pockets have been abbreviated to simple slits with rectangular storage compartments whose stitching creates a militaristic element.

The jacket is crafted from raw silk denim, a unique fabric consisting of 90% cotton and 10% silk. Despite being raw (unwashed) and thus somewhat rigid, the fabric is soft and finely textured. Unlike its less luxurious 100% cotton counterparts, it maintains a clean appearance over time with considerably less fading and stretching. The fabric's weft has a faint silver luster, which is more pronounced on the interior side. In our view, this material stands out as an archetypal example of the subtle yet groundbreaking material experimentation that characterises the Helmut Lang brand. The silhouette is fitted, with narrow shoulders and skinny sleeves. `This piece is also available in black raw denim.

The construction is exemplary like all Helmut Lang denim garments. Precise flat-fell seams protect the interior from undesirable fraying while making the jacket completely reversible. The hardware has a matte silver finish and is engraved with the Helmut Lang logo. The waist is finished with adjustable tabs and upon a closer inspection, we can see that thin tonal silk thread is used for all stitching, subtly complementing the streamlined aesthetic. 

This timeless piece combines Helmut Lang's minimalist precision with a beautiful fabric that has not been used by any other designer. Its discreet yet luxurious finish will make it one of your favourite casual jackets.


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