2000 Black Wool Flannel Classic 1-Button Blazer
Size 48: Best for an IT 48 - 38 Chest - S/M or an IT 46 - 36 Chest - S.
Raf Simons tailored jacket from A/W 2000 'Confusion'. In excellent used condition. Made in Belgium.
A/W 2000 was the culmination of Raf Simons's experiments with traditional menswear. Named 'Confusion', the collection brought a sinister element to Simons's razor-sharp tailoring in the form of clerical and military influences. Long coats with high necklines and oversized hoods were paired with skinny knitwear and loose trousers, creating a sober and severe atmosphere. Simons's iconic turtleneck was omnipresent in the majority of the outfits, giving them a sense of restrained precision. S/S 2000's reworked bomber jackets were present here as well, however this time they were decorated with obscure patches from American schools and community centres. In our view, this collection is a grand success for Simons and one of his strongest until that point in his career.
This absolutely fantastic blazer captures the collection's formal-oriented attitude. Although the origins of its design date back to Simons's early years, subtle modifications in proportion and construction make it exclusive to this collection and give it a certain old-world elegance that is rarely found in Simons's work.
The jacket is crafted from a luxurious virgin wool flannel. The winter-weight fabric has a smooth fleecy texture and a robust yet soft drape. Its spectacular colour gives depth to the streamlined design, featuring of a single-button closure with narrow notch lapels. The waist welt pockets are constructed without flaps for a cleaner look, while the back has a double vent. The silhouette is slightly different from Simons's classic blazers; his hallmark extra narrow shoulderline is maintained however the body is cut straight for a cleaner shape. Pictured: a schoolboy blazer from the same collection in the same cut and fabric, an earlier version from A/W 1999 as well as a reissue from A/W 2005.
Furthermore, the construction of this piece is exemplary and superior to any other Raf Simons tailoring from this period. Precise canvasing gives the torso a subtly sculptural appearance that reinforces the flawless aesthetic of the piece. The sleeves are finished with three functional buttons and the undercollar features a black felt insert. The interior is lined in luxurious black striped sateen on the body, black/white striped sateen on the sleeves and features two pockets. Finally, a beautiful black hanging chain adorns the neck while the buttons found throughout the piece are crafted from genuine buffalo horn.
A true stand-out from one of Simons's best collections, this blazer captures the finesse and sophistication of his visionary proposal for menswear. Drawing inspiration from Post-Punk fashion as well as traditional tailoring, Simons created suits that were precise and exceptionally good looking. The importance of his work in shaping contemporary menswear cannot be understated.