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1999 Resinated Cotton Bondage Bomber Jacket with Straps

Helmut Lang

1999 Resinated Cotton Bondage Bomber Jacket with Straps

£695.00

IT 50 - 40 chest - M: Can also fit an IT 48 - 38 chest - S/M.

Helmut Lang bomber blouson with elastic straps from S/S 1999. In excellent used condition. Made in Italy.

The late 1990s mark an important transition in Helmut Lang's work. His streetwear designs are increasingly becoming more layered and abstract, often with subtle references to subcultural styles. While the S/S 1999 runway maintained a rather minimalist tone, many of the garments that were showcased were subversively adorned with interior harnesses and asymmetric strapped details. This bomber jacket is particularly interesting as one of the earliest examples of Helmut Lang outerwear featuring his iconic elastic strap detailing, which was featured extensively in his 2003 and 2004 collections. Since then, bomber jackets have acquired 'grail' status among Lang cognoscenti, including collectors such as The Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute

The jacket has a streamlined design with a zipper closure that leads up to an aggressive funnel neck. The neckline, waistband and cuffs are finished with soft ribbed knit inserts. A vertical zipped pocket on the left side of the torso adds simple detail, while the left sleeve is finished with a classic bomber-style patch pocket. Helmut Lang's signature elastic bondage straps complete the directional design: an X-shaped piece encases the right elbow, while the sleeves are finished with cuff straps. The cut is defined and more fitted than typical bomber jackets, featuring a short tapered silhouette and elongated sleeves.

The piece is crafted from a cotton canvas that has been overdyed then resin-coated. These processes give a deep matte finish and a subtly textured surface to the medium-weight fabric. The detailing of this piece demonstrates Lang's thoughtful attention to detail: the underarms feature curvilinear panels with ventilation slits. The ribbed trims on the cuffs and waist have a reinforced stitch on their interior side for increased durability. The interior is fully lined with brushed cotton on the body, soft viscose/acetate sateen on the sleeves and is finished with a buttoned pocket and a military-style square patch pocket.

This coveted jacket is a testament to Helmut Lang's groundbreaking vision for menswear, and its design is just as relevant as when first showcased. Lang's bondage-inspired detailing is one of his most iconic touches and similar designs have appeared in the collections of several contemporary art museums.


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