2004 Grey Melange Jersey Spiral Seam T-Shirt with Logo Print
Size IT 40: Best for any size between a Women's UK 10/US 6 and a UK 6/US 2. Can also be worn by men sized IT 44 - 34 Chest - XS.
Helmut Lang long-sleeve top with logo print from A/W 2004-2005. In excellent used condition. Made in Italy.
A/W 2004-2005 is one of my favourite Helmut Lang menswear collections. Merging the finesse of his 1990's work with the intricately detailed sophistication of his final years, Lang presented a wardrobe where classic masculinity and avant-garde transgressions sit effortlessly side-by-side. An amalgamation of textures and materials referenced Lang's influential body of work; moleskin cotton, silk sateen, steel, coated buffalo leather, raw denim. The styling subverted typical notions of luxury and streetwear, balancing precision with chaos. At the same time, covert details created complex narratives that gave considerable depth to each look.
Part of the collection's basics range, this long-sleeve is decorated with the Helmut Lang logo, followed by 'New York Milano Paris'. In Lang's typical style, the print is applied on the upper back rather than the front which remains unembellished. This somewhat unusual logo placement was introduced by Lang in the early 1990s and has been imitated extensively since then. The logo has been printed using black discharge ink, pleasantly complementing the pale grey marl hue of the fabric.
A variety of thoughtful details demonstrate the high quality of this piece. The heather jersey fabric has a medium weight with considerable stretch and a soft brushed texture that feels pleasant against the skin. The silhouette is fitted with narrow shoulders, a crew neck and a waist-length body. The body and sleeves have exaggerated side seams that spiral towards the right, adding a subtle point of interest while enhancing the top's drape when it is worn. This construction has also been one of Lang's hallmarks since the early 1990s. Finally, the neckline is finished with self-fabric binding.
Executed to an exceptional standard, this piece demonstrates the hallmarks that have made Helmut Lang T-shirts so coveted years after the label's demise: printed decorations are used in moderation while the shapes are precisely tailored and realised in excellent quality fabrics. This not-so-basic approach to basics was crucial to Lang's commercial success and remains as relevant as ever.