2001 Structured Silk Hand-Finished Tailored Top
Size IT 42: Best for a Women's UK 10/US 6 or a UK 8/US 4.
Helmut Lang couture tank top with hand-stitching from S/S 2001. In excellent used condition. Made in Italy.
Helmut Lang has often been praised for his 'deconstructive' designs. With basic garment forms as the starting point, Lang created subversively elegant and abstract designs that combined the classic with the avant-garde. This experimentation was amply demonstrated in S/S 2001, where Lang explored ways of revealing the body. Cut-outs and laces were used to decorate tops, trousers and outerwear, while dresses featured straps and perforations that created a subtle yet sensual effect. The wearer's body is highlighted and in turn becomes an essential component of the design itself. S/S 2001 can thus be understood as a quintessential Helmut Lang collection, combining his cerebral conceptualism with a new sense of raw-yet-refined sexiness.
This spectacular top is an ample demonstration of the couture craftsmanship Lang's label was capable of during its prime years, and can be seen as a dress on the runway. Crafted from a heavy and substantial silk with 6% Lycra to give it some stretch, the piece is constructed to an exceptional standard with an abundance of truly captivating details. Masterfully executed darts on the chest and waist exaggerate the curves of the female form, while a beautifully hand-stitched line disrupts the front, creating an exquisite point of sartorial interest.
Upon a closer inspection, we can see that every aspect has been considered in the creation of this outstanding garment. Carefully dropped stitches along the borders of the hand-stitched line result in small evenly placed holes, boldly emphasising the sensual character of the piece. Similarly, the darts on the front have been overlaid with chunky cord, reinforcing their shape while giving them three-dimensional depth. The waistline is finished seamlessly for a clean appearance, while neckline and armholes are finished with ribbed silk binding. The gorgeous construction is complemented by the wetsuit-esque structure of the fabric which is very expensive to achieve using silk.
To conclude, this piece is a remarkable find and, in my view, one of the finest Helmut Lang garments for women to have become available by ENDYMA. Beautifully crafted and aesthetically trailblazing, I am certain that any modern fashion curator would be happy to feature it in their collection. Strongly recommended.