1992 Super 120's Wool Structured Double-Breasted Jacket
Size JP 7 Regular: Best for a Women's UK 8/US 4 or a slim UK 10/US 6.
Helmut Lang tailored jacket with panelled details from A/W 1992-1993. In excellent used condition with minor fabric imperfections on right sleeve and upper back. Made in Italy.
The A/W 1992 collection was possibly one of Lang's strongest until that point and certainly his most groundbreaking. Restricting the colours to black, white and the occasional hint of metallic, Lang showed razor-sharp tailored shapes and striking knitwear that managed to combine the raw sensuality of contemporary clubwear with the avant-garde sensibilities of Parisian couture. A diverse variety of materials ranging from metallic nylons, polished leather and transparent jerseys to fine suiting fabrics and luxurious silks were used in entirely unexpected ways, firmly establishing Lang's still fairly obscure name as one of his generation's truly experimental designers.
This rare jacket exemplifies Lang's groundbreaking tailoring in the early 1990s. With boxy broad-shouldered designs still being the norm, Lang changed the game with form-fitting silhouettes that reclaimed the position of tailoring as something new, sensual and exciting. His work represented a new approach to dressing, where luxury was achieved through effortless sophistication and an emphasis on luxurious fabrics and elegant cuts rather than gratuitous ornamentation.
The piece is crafted from a luxurious Super 120's virgin wool twill. While being soft, smooth and slightly stretchy, the fabric's exceptional quality gives it a robust drape that reinforces the precisely structured silhouette. The high button stance of the double breasted closure and sharp peak lapels evoke timeless feminine elegance. At the same time, the precisely constructed panels that shape the torso create bold lines that give a thoroughly modern feel to the piece. The silhouette is beautifully tailored with strong padded shoulders, slim sleeves and a fitted shape that closely follows the curves of the body.
The overall sharpness of the piece can be attributed to its excellent construction inside and out. The panels of the front and back are assembled flawlessly, producing clean angles and sharp geometrical shapes. Underneath the jacket's shell, a hand-tailored canvas construction gives structure to the silhouette without stiffening the soft drape of the fine wool fabric. The angular shape of the lapel edges is maintained thanks to invisible hand-stitching. The interior is fully lined in cupro sateen and features two pockets. Note the beautiful hand-finishing on the edges of the vent lining, as well as the rectangular panels that echo the construction of the exterior.
A testament to Lang's paradigm-shifting vision, this jacket offers an early example of the Austrian designer's renown tailoring. Despite having been designed over 20 years ago, its streamlined aesthetic and precise silhouette remain timelessly relevant.