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1997 Workwear Shirt with Contrasting Collar

Helmut Lang

1997 Workwear Shirt with Contrasting Collar


Size XL: Best for an IT 50 - 40 chest - M or a slim IT 52 - 42 chest - L.

Helmut Lang workwear shirt from S /S 1997 . In excellent used condition. Made in Italy.

S/S 1997 marks the large scale introduction of Helmut Lang's iconic 'Jeans' label after a smaller capsule collection for A/W 1996. This partnership between Lang and Italian manufacturers GTR Group (Gruppo Tessile Riunito) was highly conducive to the brand's commercial success in the late 1990s. Several pieces from the S/S 1997 Jeans collection were adaptations of iconic archival pieces from the Helmut Lang mainline, realized in hard-wearing materials such as canvas, nylon and resinated cotton. This distinctive shirt was originally showcased on the A/W 1994 runway in black and white silk. The more casual version for sale is crafted from cotton in a honey/beige hue with a striking neon blue collar.

The shirt's workwear origins are evident in its construction; rectangular patch pockets with flaps are found on the chest, the sleeves have a two-piece construction with adjustable barrel cuffs and the back features side pleats. The cut is more fitted than classic Helmut Lang shirts with defined shoulders, slim sleeves and a slightly tapered waist. The main fabric is a soft cotton drill with a slightly textured, worn-in finish. Conversely, the small collar is made from crisp cotton poplin. The vibrant colours and thoughtful detailing lend a thoroughly modern feel to the piece, making it extremely relevant to contemporary trends despite the fact that it was designed 20 years ago.

The clean design is finished with a curved hem and tonal mother of pearl buttons. The cuffs have a curvilinear shape with two pleats and invisible cuff openings. On the interior, the seams have flat fell finishing that prevents them from undesirable fraying.

This shirt's refined aesthetic and well-proportioned cut make it an ample demonstration of Helmut Lang's timeless appeal. Lang's designs have inspired a long list of contemporary designers, and his original creations from the mid 1990s still look better than pieces designed nowadays.

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