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1999 Vintage Jersey Spiral Seam T-Shirt with Abstract Print

Helmut Lang

1999 Vintage Jersey Spiral Seam T-Shirt with Abstract Print


Size S: Best for any size between a Women's UK 12/US 8 and a UK 8/US 4. Can also be worn by men sized IT 44 - 34 Chest - XS.

Helmut Lang abstract-print T-shirt from S/S 1999. In excellent used condition. Made in Italy.

For S/S 1999 Helmut Lang sought to emphasise the range and depth of his sartorial vision. An effortless attitude pervaded the show where the designer presented a comprehensive wardrobe for men and women, seamlessly integrating everything from militaristic streetwear to pristine tailoring and sophisticated couture creations. While the styling was relaxed and fairly casual, these were some of Lang's most innovative designs to date: For his Jeans line, the designer presented a series of strapped accessories and biker garments that would be presented again in the following winter collection. Those designs represent a period that is now remembered as one of his most iconic moments. On the mainline front, Lang's iconic saturated fuchsia colour (first seen in S/S 1994) made a remarkable appearance in the form of transparent tops and dresses, while a unique 'feathered' silk fabric was used in delicate tailoring.

One of the collection's signature tops, this piece was worn by both men and women on the runway. Its front is screen printed with an abstract decoration consisting of pale pink and grey motifs. Although the composition is reminiscent of the 'painter' garments presented the summer before (S/S 1998), a closer look suggests that it is of organic origin. Convoluted linear structures reminiscent of plant veins or connective tissue are apparent, besides chunkier shapes that fade into fine particles. Any interpretation of the decoration should consider the limitations of the screen printing process, which can portray details only up to a certain degree. It should also be noted that other pieces from this collection were decorated with stylised renditions of plant cells, reinforcing my theory about the composition's biological provenance.

A variety of thoughtful details demonstrate the high quality of the T-shirt. The fabric is a high quality medium-weight cotton jersey that has been washed and brushed to give it a vintage, worn-in finish with minor colour variations. The silhouette is semi-fitted with narrow shoulders, a crew neck and a waist-length body. The body has exaggerated side seams that spiral towards the right, adding a subtle point of interest while enhancing the top's drape when it is worn. This construction has also been one of Lang's hallmarks since the early 1990s. The neckline is finished with a thin strip of ribbed binding. 

A beautiful piece that combines everyday versatility with sophistication, this top is a signature creation from Helmut Lang's most prolific period as a designer. Its unconventional aesthetic and attention to detail set it apart from ordinary basics, while ensuring its relevance despite being almost 20 years old.

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