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2001 Compact Jersey Tailored Sport Dress with Laced Cut-Outs

Helmut Lang

2001 Compact Jersey Tailored Sport Dress with Laced Cut-Outs


IT 42: Best for a Women's UK 8/US 6 or a UK 10/US 8.

Helmut Lang cut-out sport dress from S/S 2001. In excellent used condition with minor fading. Made in Italy.

Helmut Lang has often been praised for his 'deconstructive' designs. With basic forms as the starting point, Lang created subversively elegant and abstract garments that combined the classic with the avant-garde. This experimentation was amply demonstrated in S/S 2001, where the designer explored ways of revealing parts of the body. Cut-outs and thin laces decorated tops, trousers and outerwear, while dresses featured straps and perforations that created a subtle yet sensual effect. The result was about the clothes as much as it was about the wearer's body which becomes a component of the design itself. It was a quintessential Helmut Lang collection that combined his cerebral conceptualism with a new sense of raw-yet-refined sexiness.

This beautifully top is an excellent demonstration of the Azzedine Alaia-inspired forms that influenced Lang's womenswear for this collection. Intricately tailored for a three-dimensional shape, it has an effortless athletic silhouette that closely follows the contours of the body. On the front, precise darts give subtle definition to the breasts, chest and lower waist. On the back, the collection's signature bondage-inspired laced cut-outs expose the wearer's skin. The fabric is a double-faced cotton jersey knit with a luxurious mercerised finish. Despite being jersey, it feels substantial and luxurious.

The detailing of this piece is a testament to Lang's sophistication and makes this a truly special piece. The body is constructed from multiple curved panels; the horizontal seam on the lower back beautifully ends in two darts on the front, while the side seams gently twist towards the back. The directional design is finished with a concealed zipper on the left side of the back. Every seam is perfectly executed and although this is a basic piece, its quality and intricate construction set it apart from typical dresses where stretch fabrics are used to achieve the same tailored effect.

A key piece from one of Helmut Lang's most celebrated collections, this dress captures the essence of a very specific moment in time that is now revered and venerated; in our opinion, it belongs in someone's personal wardrobe as much as it belongs to the collection of a contemporary art museum.

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